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Wood sills on my 29

 

Stovebolt 6
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So, I had a feeling the wood under the cab at the cowl was bad. Everywhere I can see wood it looks great. There were some tell tale signs on the cowl that there was a problem. I removed the fenders, running boards and slash apron for painting and the wood at the front of the cab is badly rotted on the passenger side. Today, I removed those same parts from the driver’s side and its not as bad but I would rather replace it now than deal with it in the future… I also don't like passing problems on to future owners. 

I have good wood working skills and my FIL is a master woodworker. I am sure we can figure out how to duplicate what is there if necessary. I do have a call into Classic Wood to see if I can buy them but I know they are very backed up. 

I have removed all the body mount bolts and the entire interior. I plan to take the doors off to reduce the weight when lifting the body. I have never done work like this on a wood framed car. I assume the wood comes out the bottom once I release all the nails and floorboards. I plan to brace the doors and cowl with angle iron and 2x4s to prevent shifting during the process. 

Here are my questions if anyone has done this before… (before anyone asks, yes I have measured everything. Door openings in multiple places, cowl measurement and today I am going to take some more measurements cross body to make sure everything stays where it is supposed to)

1. I assume the wood will come out the bottom when the body is lifted. Is there a trick to this? I can see screws from the A pillar to the sill wood. B pillar is likely the same. 

2. The metal on the cowl is rotting as well. I know I can fix that but welding metal over wood is not ideal. Is there an another better way to install patch panels on these cars? 

3. I plan to install cross bracing in the interior of the cowl and also some bracing from the firewall to the A pillar and then the A pillar to the B pillar. Is this sufficient or should I also have cross bracing from the left to right B pillar?

4. What is the best way to lift the body… if that’s is how best to remove the offending wood?

5. I also assume the doors need to come off to make this easier. Is that correct?

 

Sorry I ask such a noob. I am very anxious about doing this. I have done work like this on metal cars… those are easy. This one confounds me and I just don’t want to damage anything. This car didn't survive 96 years for me to mess it up now.

Thanks 

Rich 

 

 


This topic was modified 1 day ago by Stovebolt 6

   
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David Dunton
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Some pictures of the damaged wood might help with the answer. How are the bottom ends of the hinge and latch pillars?  I have done /doing a couple of convertibles and I suspect they are easy compared to a closed car. I just don't know how you do it without taking the metal all off unless it is minor rot damage. I do have a pair of 29 front hinge pillars I will never use if you end up needing them.

Dave



   
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Stovebolt 6
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@david-dunton Dave, Thanks for the quick response. The hinge post (what I refer to as the A pillar) looks good except for the lowest part which is a bit punky but Zi think I can remedy that. The sill that goes from the cowl to the rear wheel well is rotted at the front. My primary question is how to remove the old wood. Does it come out the bottom? Or does it come out through the interior of the car? Also how to patch the metal? I dont think welding patch panels in over wood is a good idea… but then again I have never tried it. 😁

attached are pics of the sill by the cowl (from under the car) and the door post (form inside the car). I think the door post is fixable. The sill is not. I need to get it out and replace it. The other side is bad too but not this bad.

IMG 4758
IMG 4757
IMG 4759

 



   
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Stovebolt 6
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@david-dunton Dave, does the wood come out from the bottom?



   
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Steve Dalphonse
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The body is lifted off the frame after removing all attaching screws and brackets.  Both the sills on my 32 were replaced though I did not do the work. On my car the body was removed completely but I am guessing the sill could be replaced if the body was lifted just enough to slide the sills out. My thoughts are that it best to replace one side first while leaving the other side in place. Also you might want to get a copy of the Fisher Body Service Manual for 26-31 . I think The Filling Station should have them. Item #100536C


This post was modified 22 hours ago by Steve Dalphonse

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Stovebolt 6
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@steve-d thanks Steve, I was thinking the same thing, one side at a time. I will be removing the doors today and installing more bracing than I probably need. But better safe than sorry. I will get the manual as well. 

 



   
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David Dunton
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I suppose you could replace the sills from the bottom. All body nails, pillar brackets and cross braces where the tool tray and metal flooring is nailed would have to be removed where they are attached to the sill. I have just re-wooded by removing all the metal but all my wood was bad. Welding after the metal was off. 

Please post pictures of your work this will be good to see. Also check the top front roof area for rot where the hinge pillar meets the roof and windshield.

Dave



   
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