I would change the complete rod not just a cap. if you have a spare that has shims remove all the shims to check if it will bind on the crank. Be sure to clean the crank surface really good first. Also you might "mic" the crank to see if it may be undersize. Also a good time to check clearance on all the rods and the mains. 

@steve-d I don’t have the  knowledge and probably don’t want to spend the money for a rebuild of this old of engine. Might have to find a modern 6 with an auto transmission and just switch out.  Before this happened my plan was to sell this car .. need to think but have to at least put it back so I can move it. Thanks for advice & input.

One way to get around the 'upload restrictions' is to put your video on youtube and then put a link to it in your post here.

Dean

Another question for Chip and others having familiarization with engine rod and crank babbitt bearings. Can you explain what causes the side wear vs center wear of the piston rod cap bearing? Having no shims adds to the mystery.

@harry-truppner Possibly a bent/twisted rod.

@harry-truppner 

A bent rod will show wear on an outer edge of the bearing, not the parting edge.

I would think that the wiping of the babbit at the parting edge of the cap indicates a mismatch of the rod and cap.

Assuming that the right rod bolts are present (a slightly smaller diameter would allow misalignment), then either the cap was on the rod backwards, or the rods and caps were mixed up during the last assembly.

Keep in mind that just because the cap may have had the right number stamped on it, and may even have had the number facing the proper side of the engine, it doesn't mean the rod above it is the rod that was originally matched to that cap, or that it is facing the right way (although that part can be verified by looking at the wrist pin locking bolt on the upper end of the rod).

Needless to say, the rod and cap are a matched pair that are machined together and can not be replaced individually.

Well was going to use a spare rod i have that babbit looked good. Then i found out my crank  is .020 undersized and my extra rods are for stock crank. Anyone have a .020 undersized rod. I dont think mine can be reused. Crank looks ok. Will try to remove rod next week from oil pan side. If i get it out hopfully someone has a used one or new that will get me out of this nightmare. I fell like im in deep water.

There are several people or companies that can re-babbit a rod to either "semi" or a specific under size. Pauls Rod and Bearing, Egge are two. There is one that adversities in the G&D. If you know anyone that has a Model A or T they might know of one closer to you.  

@kevin-ray,  in 2017, I rebuilt the 1928 engine in my '27 one ton truck by myself and at home.  Although you are dealing with a 1932 engine, I think the story of my rebuild will help you better understand what is involved. This adventure is document here: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/386451/1/resurrecting-a-28-4-banger.html

I tore down three used engines, check all the parts, and assembled one, good engine.  I did mix and match the rods with their respective caps. I also had a local machine shop bore out the cylinders to be .060 inch oversized and bought new pistons and wrist pins from Egge, with good results.

Hope this helps.  Dean

Hoping to find a usable used rod as others appear to be ok. Cost factor for one rod at most is half of what all 6 would be do to set up time. All kinds of new old stock for 33 but as we know they won’t work. Still looking. Thanks for all the advise and suggestions

@kevin-ray Do you have the crank journal measurements? I have a few rods but no idea if any are oversize.

@steve-d thanks for offering to help out. After remeasuring must have gotten overwhelmed and measured wrong. It was still stock so I had one I think will work. It was #4 it took us 6 hrs. It will be worth it if what we did works. If not it’s been a learning adventure. I’m not sure if it had been # 1 or 6 if we could have done it. Not a lot of working room. No blueing or marks on crank but when lifted rod babbit parts fell out. Like I said if this works out I very lucky if not have learned a lot. I will be checking my other car soon. As I know know easier to take out shims or file cap then do what I just did. Thanks for reaching out to help.

@kevin-ray When you have it all together and running let us know the result.