If I understand you correctly, the smoke is coming from the side panel holes that go around the spark plugs.  There should be round gaskets behind the side panel around for each sparkplug that should seal any oil or smoke.

good luck

Rich didn't say but from previous posts he has a 29 so no gaskets at the plugs. I would think a little smoke at idle would be normal. I haven't started my 29 so don't know from first hand experience.

Dave

What years did they start using the gaskets around the spark plugs?

My 29 has a no vented rocker arm cover and no gaskets around the plugs and my 31 has a vented cover and gaskets around the plugs. So somewhere in between. The catalog I have wasn't clear on the change but talked about retrofitting the new to the old.

Dave

Yes It is a 29… sorry I was not clear. So no gaskets around the spark plugs. My 53 does have the cork gaskets and breathers in the valve cover. 

This has no gaskets and no breathers in the valve cover. I do think a little smoke is expected. It really is just a wispy smoke you really have to look to see it. 

An update… I had my buddy come over and we listened to the motor with his scope. He had a 29 just like this for a few years. It sounded fine to him except for a slight ticking in the valves. He thought it was more prominent in the front than the back. I really couldn’t tell the difference between the front and the back. I think I need to drive this a bit in the spring and then change the oil and see what comes out. So far it has only run a few hours and the oil on the dipstick still looks like new. 

I pulled the plugs and they are not quite as I would like them. A bit on the black side and they have some residue on them. It looks more like oil than gas and there is some fine grit that concerned me. As I said before the exhaust is clean no smoke or carbon. See pics of 1 plug attached. They all looked pretty much like this. Idk how long this engine sat with no oil in it before I got it. It starts on the first crank. Oil pressure is good. I need a temp gauge but everything seems to work properly. The carb may need a little tweaking. I usually adjust my carbs with a vacuum gauge. Can i do that on this with the vac port in the manifold? I may also just check the lash in the rockers to see is one or 2 is way off. 

With my 53 the more I drive that the better it gets. It really sings after being on the road for 10 or 15 minutes. I haven’t had the chance to run the 29 much. I did drive it around my yard and it has decent power and all the gears work. I don't seem to have to dbl clutch. I thought that was a requirement on these. 

Thanks for the advice guys. 

Rich 

PS. With all the plugs looking the same Im thinking carb adjustment and checking the valves. I don’t think 1 or 2 rockers out of adjustment will make all the plugs looking like they do. They are almost exactly the same. 

@stovebolt-6 

Hi Rich

Sorry I didn't reply earlier, just got back in from the farm.

It's been a long time since I've run my '29, but I don't remember any fumes venting around the plugs.

That said, I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Normally the "smoke" would be drawn out of the crankcase and into the air stream going into the carburetor at the "air cleaner" (which is a generous description of the apparatus in my opinion).

So...

You might check the oil separator just to make sure it isn't plugged with sludge.

Depending on whether you have an early or a late '29, the separator will be at the back left of the block (rearward of the carburetor), or on the crankcase oil filler (forward of the carburetor).

If it is clear, then your blow-by is just a little more than the system can handle...

But again, nothing to worry about.  🙂

Hi Ole, 

Thanks for the response. Yes I have a later 29 engine, May 4th casting. It doesn’t have the oil separator it has the tube going to the oil fill from the air filter. (Yes I agree, a very ambitious name for that tin can with holes in it.) That is all clean and clear. I think you’re right, the tiny amount of smoke is likely not a concern. I will see how it progresses with more running time. I did squirt mystery oil in the spark plug holes when I got the engine. And again when I did the compression test so the wetness on the plug threads is probably ok too.

The small amount of grit on the plugs is a little concerning. I don’t think I have seen that before. But it could be carbon burning off surfaces that have been idle for a long time. Chip did the carb for me and it starts right up. The only adjustment I have made is to increase the idle a bit. I may need ot lean out the mixture just a bit.

I know there are oil additives out there that are meant to free sticky valves and such but I hesitate to use any modern detergents in an engine this old. I am running straight 30 weight oil in the crankcase as I only plan to drive this in the summer months. In the spring I will drop the pan and clean out any left over debris. 

The sad part is I leave for several months tomorrow so all this needs to wait until I get back. I will miss this project while I’m gone. 

Rich

@stovebolt-6 

Hope you are going some place nice!

We're supposed to get an inch of snow here later today, so I guess the '46 will be parked for the duration of the winter.  ☹️

My recommendation (and that of many others including Doug Bell who was one of the original founders of the VCCA and who drove a 1931 Chev in California) is to use a light oil in an old Chevrolet.

Bell used a straight 10W in his '31 year round in California even though he said he drove at pretty high speeds.

Oil pressure in a '29 is irrelevant, it's all about flow.

And with the small size of the lines supplying the dipper troughs and reservoirs above the main bearings, a lighter oil will give better flow and lubrication.

Don't worry about hurting your engine with a modern detergent oil.

Detergent is your friend and will keep those small lines from plugging with sludge.

In many engines there is the worry of the detergent lifting deposits from the oil pan etc and then having them pumped through the system and into bearings etc. if you don't remove the pan and clean it out first.

You don't have to worry about that as the '29 doesn't feed oil directly into any bearing.

Anything loosened by the detergent will merely settle out in those reservoirs above the main bearings and oil will continue to flow into the bearings through the standpipes in the middle of those reservoirs.

And, as you said, you'll be cleaning out the pan in the spring anyway.  🙂

And, modern detergent oils give much better corrosion protection while the car is parked.

Hope that helps!

@ole-olson yes we are on our way to Florida. My wife hates the cold these days. 

thanks for the advice on the oil. I will switch over in the spring after I drive it a bit. I do have good pressure but I see what you mean about the tiny tubes. I don’t feel like there’s enough oil getting to the top but I have only my 235 to compare to and that is a high pressure oil system. 

I will need some tires and tubes when I get back. my tires are in rough shape  I am looking to see if someone near me in Maine can do an alignment for me. I remember it made a world of difference in driving my 53.

all has to wait til spring.

Stay warm

Rich