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37 Burb window regulators

 

Lou MacMillan
(@lou-macmillan)
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    I'm working on a couple of 1937 Carryall Suburbans.   All 12 of the window regulators are rusted shut as are the 4 door latches.   Before I soak them in oil,  I thought of heating them red hot with a torch and quelch with a spritz bottle like I do with rusty nuts.   Any one know of a better way to get them to working? 

     Thanks,     Lou       

 



   
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35mike
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@lou-macmillan Be careful Lou, there might be some white metal parts in the crank mechanism.

 

Mike


Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
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37Blue
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I agree proceed with caution.  In the long run, assuming they are not yet, it would be best to remove them from the doors.  Be sure to take a lot of photos from various angles before so doing.  Then wire brush clean them to remove as much gunk as possible.  Then use one of several rust removal processes to clean them.  I’ve used a chemical rust converter or electrolysis.   My best results for small parts have been with the later.  It’s fairly simple and does a thorough job. There have been many descriptions of that process in the old VCCA Chat forum.  YouTube likely has tutorials as well.



   
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Steve Dalphonse
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I have had good results with Evapo-Rust.  


7472 old site post


   
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Lou MacMillan
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    Hi Mike,   Thanks for the warning.  I also need to be cautious not to anneal the springs.             

Hi 37Blue,  Thank you for the suggestions.  The mechanisms are devoid of grease and gunk which is why they rusted.   What chemical rust converter would you suggest? 

Hi Steve,   I'll get some Evapo-Rust tomorrow.           



   
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Tiny
 Tiny
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Have you thought about trying electrolysis?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09ck7R9zvUw&t=108s


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37Blue
(@lee)
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I may have used a LocTite product sold by NAPA?  There are several similar products available from a variety of vendors.  My guess is they all use the same basic chemicals to create the same or very similar results.

As reported above, and Tiny graciously provided a YouTube link,  I used electrolysis mostly for small parts.  I do recall at least one restorer using it for larger parts.  He reported using large a tub he made from roll of thick plastic and heavyweight cardboard boxes.  It’s fairly inexpensive process but does take more time to complete.  Once parts are out of the bath, rinsed and dried, I used a blow dryer, the exposed surfaces need to be sealed with primer or something else to inhibit “flash rusting”.



   
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Steve Dalphonse
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@lou-macmillan The Evapo-Rust remover does need to be used in a warm environment. I think 65 or more and the higher the temp the faster/better it works. With that in mind you do not want to leave anything in the solution any longer than necessary .


7472 old site post


   
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Lou MacMillan
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Topic starter  

    Thank you for the temperature information.   Friends call my garage "Siberia".   When it's 90f in the summer, it's 70f inside.  It's now the mid 50s outside and too cold to do much in the garage.  The electrolysis U-tube is informative.   

     Thanks again,   Lou       

 



   
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