Hi Jerry

Just a little heads up.

If you end up making a line, be aware that brake lines may appear to be copper, but they should only be copper plated.

Pure copper should not be used for making brake lines.

Even if the copper used will withstand the pressure, it work hardens over time and will eventually crack and fail.

I've heard that copper-nickel alloy tubing does not work harden like straight copper tubing will. Also, it will be easier to work with (bend, flare) than steel tubing.

Dean

@ole-olson @jerry-berry @rustoholic Jerry, Ole, Dean, Chevrolet Master Parts Catalog, Group 4.685, PIPE, Hydraulic Brake. Not in my 1949 version, but in some earlier ones, The bulk tubing was offered both in steel and copper, in 25 ft. rolls. My Son's 1938, 1 ton truck had copper lines on it. Just a little info, to get started.

Jerry, the 1949 catalog has a listing, in Group 4.685 for the lengths of each individual piece of "pipe" for every location, on every vehicle, up to that time. It shows an 18" piece for the RF location on your car. So much for the accuracy of the catalog info. The good news is that your local auto parts store has brake lines, complete with fittings, in various lengths and they should have one that you can form into the shape you need. These tubes can be cut and re-flared to your exact length but they require a double or inverted flare. This calls for a special tool. 

Mike

@rustoholic 

Hi Dean

Yes, the copper nickel alloy tubing is perfectly fine.

As you stated, it doesn't work harden like pure copper and is easier to work with.

And resistant to corrosion.

Although I will admit to having used pure copper in a pinch, I believe it is now outright illegal to install copper tube as a brake line.

We were taught in mech school that the tiny amount of expansion and contraction from repeated pressure changes of brake applications is enough to work harden pure copper.

PS

This is probably more of a problem when pressures are higher as when a brake booster is involved.

@35mike I took the broken piece to Lowes and they had one of the fittings and a coil of 5 feet of 1/4 inch copper tubing. I will have to look for the fitting that screws directly into the wheel cylinder. I don't know what "catalog" you refer to. Is it readily available? If I knew the name of it, I'm sure I could find it.

@ole-olson I did a search on the advisability of using pure copper for brake lines and found one automotive posting that says it's ok, but not the best. I found another that says absolutely not. So, I checked and Advance auto sells nickel copper line in 40" lengths for $17. I can take the other back to Lowes for return. Thanks for the good advice.

@35mike Mike, there's a hub for sale on eBay and it's listed as a "left or driver's side hub". I think the left and right are identical aren't they? I think your catalog would confirm that one way or another.

@jerry-berry There is no difference. 1939 through 1948 passenger cars all use the same hub. If the hub is used, the seller probably removed it from the left side and is covering his a_ _. I'm always amused by ads that read something like "looking for a grille for a 1941 Chevy Coupe". DUH, does he think Chevrolet made a different grille for every body style? My advice to everyone is...get a parts book and learn to read it. I have about 30 of them.

Mike

@35mike I found a Parts Manual on eBay and bought it. It looks like something a guy/girl like us needs when replacing parts on these old cars. Thanks for letting me know where to look for part numbers.

I'm not sure who worked on the brakes on this old 41 I acquired but they clearly weren't very professional. When I pulled the driver side hub off, I found that the inner bearings were different on left to right. They weren't the same size dimentially and they had different part numbers on the cone race and the ball bearing part. The passenger side, bearing race was galled pretting badly and unusable. One of the balls actually fell out of the bearing pack. So, the delimma was to determine which bearing kit was the proper item for the old Chevy. The parts manual helped and I bought the hub, backing plate, wheel cylinder bearings and all the other parts inside the brake drum for $70 bucks which seemed like a good buy. I had previously ordered a new brake drum from Chevs of the 40s, but it's not ribbed like the others including the one I broke getting it off. The seller said the parts were original to a 41 Chevy coupe like mine. We'll see. 

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the bearings are National B-01 (outer) and B-02 (inner). They were used for a lot of years. They came with New Departure bearings which is no longer in business.

@jerry-berry The front wheel bearings for 41 -into the early sixties?  were all the same on passenger cars. The Filling Station sells a kit to do both sides with seals and converts the ball bearings to tapered.  There are many variable ways to buy the bearings-indivdual or kits and from many different manufacturers.