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29 transmission rebuild

 

Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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Joined: 11 years ago
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Topic starter  

I'm rebuilding a 29 trans, and some parts are no longer available from TFS or C&P.  I am looking for the reverse gear shaft and the bushings for that gear.  I can have the shaft fabricated if necessary.  If I have to fabricate bushings, what type of material would you recommend.


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Rustoholic
(@rustoholic)
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Joined: 35 years ago
Posts: 308
 

If you can find the original part numbers, I suggest that you look in a parts book and see if any other years or models used the same part numbers. If so, that widens where you search for new parts.

The same part number across multiple years and models is the interchange information (without interchange books!). 😉

Hope this helps, Dean


Dean "Rustoholic" Meltz
San Leandro, CA
3511 posts on vccachat.org
Lurch -1927 LM one ton truck - tinyurl.com/Lurch-VCCACHAT-Gallery
Justin - 1928 AB Canopy Express (1/2 ton truck) - tinyurl.com/Justin-Stovebolt-Gallery


   
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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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@rustoholic Thanks, I'll look.


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35mike
(@35mike)
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Joined: 16 years ago
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@bare-feet Pete, I assume you're talking about the reverse idler gear since it is the one with a shaft and bushings. If so, all '29-'31 three speed transmissions use the same parts. Gear with bushings 590198, Bushings 590199, Shaft 328662. None are currently on eBay under these numbers. I hope this helps.

 

Mike


Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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Topic starter  

Thanks for the suggestions, I haven't been able to find the reverse gear shaft and C&P Automotive is not making them now.

The other thing I haven't found is the freeze plug that goes in the hole where the counter shaft goes in. I will try to reuse the old one.

I located bushings at Mc Master Carr that look like they will work fine.  

6381K55 High-Strength 932 Bearing Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 3/4" Shaft Diameter and 7/8" Housing ID, 1-1/4" Long

The O.D. is actually .877" so they fit snug.   I will have to cut oil grooves.

The 3/4' shaft has some wear. I may have to have one fabricated.


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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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Just curious if anyone else has rebuilt the 29 transmission.  This is my third time.  I have a question about the bearing seals.


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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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For some reason the second half of my post did not appear.

The main bearings on the input and sliding shaft come sealed.  The instructions say to remove the inner seal during assembly.

Is this necessary on the front bearing?  The seals keep the bearings clean.  I believe the rear bearing which did not have seals originally allowed the transmission oil to circulate into the universal joint.  If I leave the seals on the rear bearing how will the oil level in the universal joint be maintained?


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Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
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Joined: 7 years ago
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@bare-feet 

Hi Pete

Being a farmer, I work with lots of sealed "permanently" lubricated bearings... and bearings in gear cases etc that are internally oiled and sealed to the outside.

The bearing with one seal on the outside, but allowing constant oiling from the inside will always outlast the "permanently" lubricated bearing with two seals.

And, if you leave the seals in the rear bearing, how will the oil level be maintained in the universal joint?

It probably won't.  🙂

It holds very little oil which soon be depleted by by normal old car leakage.

 

These are just my opinions of course, and I could be wrong.  🙂


Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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Topic starter  

Thanks Stovebolt

There is no substitute for experience.  My thought on the front bearing was concern for the small metal particles in the oil from wear on the teeth. I did put a magnetic drain plug in but probably should have removed the inner seal.

On the rear bearing the instructions say to leave the outer seal in place to help prevent leaks. I will remove both inside and outside to allow oil to the universal joint.


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