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Help wanted 1932 Chev coupe restoration

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(@ozchev32)
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Hi from Australia, I have just commenced restoration on what I believe to be a factory RHD Fisher bodied ( possibly Canadian ) 32 Chevrolet 5 window coupe. I would like to know if anyone has any pictures of previous restorations in progress particularly wood construction in progress. There are no kits available in Australia and from what I have seen none currently in USA. The floor beams that mount the body are 150mm ( 5.9" ) wide. any measurements , patterns, photos anyone could assist with would be appreciated. I have the Fisher body manual however that seems to more of generalisation of how they were constructed not an exact plan specific to the model.

Again any assistance appreciated.


   
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Tiny
 Tiny
(@tiny)
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Welcome Oz! One of our Moderators hails from the land down under. I don't know how much experience he has with wood parts but he'll likely chime in as soon as he finds this thread. Good luck with your project.

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Steve Dalphonse
(@steve-d)
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 A local VCCA member (now deceased) was a master cabinet maker and made all the wood for the restoration of his 32 cabriolet. When discussing the project with him he said he used the drawings and sheet metal as a guide and knowing the types of joints used it was not that difficult. So my suggestion is to contact a cabinet maker for assistance.

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Chip
 Chip
(@chip)
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My suggestion is to find a similar era Chevrolet in your area. It is not absolutely necessary for it to be a 1932 Coupe for you to know how they were put together and get approximate measurements. Mortise/tenon joints are used for door posts and other similar connections where strength is critical. Often they are supported with metal plates. Cross members use lap joints at the sills. Finger joints connect pieces to retain the straight grain strength for curved pieces. Modern replacements can use laminates to accomplish the same or greater strength. Modern water resistant glues will provide strength far longer than the original hide glue that over the years deteriorates. I use Titebond III.

If you have pieces that are mostly in good condition but have deteriorated places replacement wood can be fitted. I have successfully repaired ends using offset lap joints with stainless screws and glue in the laps. Wooden dowel plugs repair bolt and screw holes, toothpicks work well in nail holes. 

Sometimes it takes a little fitting or making a pattern using soft woods which can be more easily adjusted. Other parts can be duplicated using cardboard patterns that replicate the inside of the metal panels. Placing the cardboard edgewise against the panel and following the curvature with a pencil held against the panel gives an accurate rendering.

It is not as hard as one might think but having the proper wood working tools and an assortment of clamps are a bid help.

How sweet the roar of a Chevy four
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(@ozchev32)
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@chip 

No worries , some good suggestions there, thanks for your help, there is wood in the body which isn't so much of a problem , however there is some

that have been remade / replaced which is questionable , mainly the main beams that sit on the chassis don't appear to be right, I just thought someone might have had pictures of theirs being restored for reference. In Australia the Chev bodies were built by Holden and they didn't build coupes. Mostly phaetons and roadsters have survived , but quite a bit different from their US cousins. As you say a bit of time and effort I should be able to work it out, cheers


   
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David Dunton
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(@ozchev32)
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Thanks Dave, that's what I am talking about , a lot of info can be obtained from looking at people's projects , I think restoring old cars like this spooks a lot of people off these days, the more information you can find out the easier it becomes and less cost prohibitive. Appreciate your help , Thanks Brian


   
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(@bert-askes)
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Hello Ozchev32

Just noticed your post  I just finished my restoration of a Canadian 1932 5 window coupe last year.  I have another on the go currently.  My original wood was deteriorated to the point where there was not enough left to re use or duplicate.  I purchased an abandoned project out of the states which included a complete wood kit.  I made a copy router and reprodeced the entire kit.  I haven't installed any of it yet and would be happy to send you pictures of any pieces as needed.  The kit was made by Jim Rodman at Autowood Restoration around about 12 or 13 years ago.  Address at the time was Box 86, Wheeler Street, Hanna IN 46340.  Phone 219 797-3775.  I doubt if you will get any response.  In 2017 he was having health issues and his son left the business and as a result he was not very active.  Let me know if I can be of any help..

 


   
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(@ozchev32)
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@bert-askes Wow! , that's awesome , does any of your coupes have a rumble seat , I am particularly interested in the floor at the moment , it appears from what I can research there was no wood after the toolbox pan crossmember, it appears the floor was all tin from that point. My car has no floor from this point and I have no patterns. Any pictures relating to this and your restoration would be greatly appreciated. Interesting Does the Canadian model vary much from the US model?

Also Bert I have no seat at all , I see you can buy seat spring sets , do you have patterns for the seat, also by any chance ? and any pictures of the seat mechanism

Cheers Brian

This post was modified 2 weeks ago 2 times by Ozchev32

   
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David Dunton
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I think you are right on the rumble floor. Here is a picture of my 31 Cabriolet which should be very close to yours but I am not 100%. The metal floors are/were being reproduced, very nice piece when I bought one.

new wood 2

. The company changed hands or name and I think they are known as American Muscle on ebay. Maybe someone has a direct line?

Dave


   
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Chip
 Chip
(@chip)
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The rumble seat floor is the same for 1931 & 1932 Cabriolets and Sport Roadsters. So are the lids, seat springs, etc.

How sweet the roar of a Chevy four
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(@ozchev32)
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@david-dunton Thanks Dave, this is exactly the type of pictures I have been looking for , Looking at your picture there is one more timber crossmember by the rear shockers, The picture confirms the timber bearers sit off the chassis as they go rear ward. It surprises me they don't sit on the chassis frame directly. There are basically no progress photos on the internet like this of which I would of thought there would be dozens. That one image is most helpful and greatly appreciated.

I think we might have to try fabricate the floor from images , I just had one quote of $1000-1500 US just for freight of those repro floor panels.

Dave / Chip thanks for your replies, the more pictures like this the better!

Regards Brian

 


   
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David Dunton
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Here are a couple more from John Potter when Ralph was doing his wood. This is a 32 Cabriolet. If there is a view you need let me know I may have it.

6W9K2247
6W9K2244
6W9K2274

 


   
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Chip
 Chip
(@chip)
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The only parts of the body that rest on the chassis are the main sills. The body was a complete assembly before it was mated to the chassis.

This post was modified 2 weeks ago by Chip

How sweet the roar of a Chevy four
Participant on Chatter since 11/22/2001
19758 posts on the former Chatter site


   
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(@ozchev32)
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@david-dunton 

Thanks Dave, as they say " a picture is worth a 1000 words " I noticed one picture the floor has been laid in, anymore pictures of the floor installed at different angles would help. I see the repro panels for the rumble seat have three holes on each side 1 small hole and two larger ones , does anyone know the purpose of these.

rumble seat floor pan 3

I assume the smaller hole may fit over a bolt head.

This post was modified 1 week ago by Ozchev32

   
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