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Temp sending unit question

 

(@stovebolt-6)
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Hi Guys, I am installing a 1929 engine in my 1929 International. The sending unit for the car was missing when I got it (the engine was torn down) The engine I have is a truck engine with a May casting date. My original engine had an April casting date. I know there are some differences. The new engine has what looks like to me a mechanical temp sender (it has a bulb and a tiny piece of capillary tube that has been cut off) not an electric one. My gauge is electric. My question is can i just replace the mechanical sending unit with an electric one like they have on the filling station? It looks like it could screw into the same port.  

Another question is the original engine had no engine mount bolt on the front. Just the 2 on the tranny in the rear. The new engine has a bolt that fits down into the hole in the front cross member. My question there is…Is there a motor mount or rubber spacer that goes on the front? Seems like the engine should not rest directly on the crossmember. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice. 

Rich

 



   
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(@harry-truppner)
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Joined: 15 years ago
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Hello Stovebolt 6,

My opinion, I see no problem installing an electrical sender in your truck engine if it looks like The Filling Station RW-697 sender for cars and trucks. It currently is on 'waiting list', so not available until-? Other suppliers may help.

Google: did the 1929 chevy car engine have motor mounts

Response: VCCA Chat-29 Motor Mounts

View question and responses/reasons.

Master Parts Price List: MPPL indicates no mounts other than frame cross members for engine support.



   
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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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@harry-truppner

IMG 1282

There is no motor mount, just bolt it down tight.  The engine in my 29 had loosened enough to cause wear on the cross member so I had to build it up with weld to full thickness.  I also tack welded the bolt in place.  Use a high strength fine thread bolt and tighten it securely.


29 coupe
687 old site posts


   
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Pete
 Pete
(@bare-feet)
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Joined: 10 years ago
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My temperature gauge did not work.  I replaced the sending unit with one from TFS, but it still did not work I sent the gauges out for repair, and the person who did the work went through many gauges before finding one that worked.  The gauge no longer works so I am at a loss as to what to do.


29 coupe
687 old site posts


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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Joined: 3 months ago
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Topic starter  

@harry-truppner Thanks. I may see if I can find an after market sending unit and use an after market gauge if I have to. 

Right now I have a bigger issue. I ran my tranny through the gears before installing it on the engine. After installing it all in the car the tranny wont shift. I am going through the clutch adjustment in the book but I am thinking there is an obstruction in the hole in the end of the crank shaft that is binding the gears. 

The reasons I think this are: 1. When I put the transmission on the engine there was a very small gap that I thought nothing of because it closed up when I tightened the bolts. 2. With the rear wheels off the ground and the tranny in neutral when turning the engine the rear wheels still turn just a little. I dread taking this all apart but it is my own fault for not checking the gears again after I mated the engine up. 

More to come. 



   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@bare-feet Thanks I do have the bilt on the front but I dont have the nut. I assume it is a castle nut as the bolt has a hole through it.



   
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(@harry-truppner)
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Hello Stovebolt 6,

If your tranny won't shift, how do you know for sure it's in neutral if the rear tire rotates in the air when rotating the engine? Try verifying neutral by setting the rear tires on the ground and then rotate the engine to see what happens. If the tranny input shaft is binding/pressed against the engine crankshaft, tranny neutral should still disconnect the rear from turning/rotating. Your clutch mechanism might be inoperative to function properly if the tranny input shaft is not free/independent of the engine crankshaft. Your tranny shift mechanism may not be free to mesh/shift if the tranny input shaft is bound up. Two people might get the tranny to shift if one person is rotating the engine while the other person is pushing or pulling on the shift lever. Whatever the issue is, these tests should help to narrow what/where the problem is. Just my guess.



   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@harry-truppner Thanks for the advice. I tried a few things and could not get it to work properly. I took the engine out and removed the tranny. Everything looked right. Then I could not shift the tranny even separate from the engine. I removed the shifter and reinstalled it and it worked fine. I re-mated the engine and tranny and it still worked fine. I put the engine back in and I had some challenges getting the shifter in properly but now all is well.

I can’t believe I spent the whole day doing this when it was a 5 minute fix. I have had the shifter out of my truck and this car several times. I had no idea it could be installed misaligned because it never happened before. I was under the impression when the shifter clicked in it was all good. Apparently not.

The only good part of this is the learning curve for installing the engine and the closed drive train is very steep. The second time was much quicker. 🙂

Thanks Again 

Rich 


This post was modified 3 weeks ago by Stovebolt 6

   
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(@harry-truppner)
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Joined: 15 years ago
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Hello Stovebolt 6,

Good that you got things sorted out. So, it was the shifter that had the issue. Thanks for sharing your findings.

 



   
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