Update … This is a 1929 194. I used a brake bleeding tool to get the fuel to the pump. The pump may need to be replaced or rebuilt.

I did got through the checklist that Chipper posted some time ago on ignition systems. I have what looks like a generic 6 volt coil. Is there a special coil needed for the electrolock or with any 6 volt work?

I checked the coil and there is power to the positive side but not the negative side when the electrolock is in the “out” position. There is power to both sides when the electrolock is in the “in” position. I don’t know which position is on or off. I assumed the out position was on. 

Regardless of the electrolock position there is no power to the points. (.15 volts in the “out” position no voltage in the “in” position. (I did have power to the points at one time today and I know I saw a spark ot one point but not anymore. 

I have 6+ volts on both ends of the 3 wires that connect to the coil and the starter. I rewired the whole car but not these 3 wires because they were in good shape and had continuity. I just replaced the ends. All my connections are crimped and soldered. 

IDK what goes on inside the electrolock device but … It ain’t good.  

What position is supposed to be on and what is the easiest way to replace it. I’m thinking a simple on off ignition switch with a lead from the battery through the switch to the distributor. 

Thoughts?

Rich 

Someone should be along shortly who can give specifics on 1929 coils. Electrolocks in general are simply a way to prevent hot wiring a car. It is simply an armored housing that protects access to the wire between the ignition switch and coil. In general, any 6v coil should work but, if not an "electrolock coil", would require bypassing/removing the electrolock.

@tiny 2 questions:

1. Is the electrolock in the on position when its out? 

2. If I just run a wire to the distributor should I connect the external condenser to that wire as well?  I know I need to insulate it from the distributor body.

I know the electrolock is just a theft deterrent but I wanted to try to keep it. I’m sure the contacts in the key end are probably dirty or corroded. Good thing is if I do replace it I will keep it and maybe in the future try to get it to work again.  

I don't know many specifics on the 29. They are rebuildable. @chip rebuilds them I believe.

@stovebolt-6 I am no authority on the early popout style electrolock, but I think IN should be off. As for a hot wire, Battery to coil (+) would be the correct connection. Any properly connected 6 volt coil should work. With the hot wire in place, pull the center wire from the cap and hold it where it can jump fire to ground when you crank the engine. If yes, replace this wire and pull a wire from a spark plug and repeat, if you have a spark at the plugs you should be good to go on the electrical front. I'm sure you have made sure that your timing is correct. 

I like to use a gravity feed "nurse tank" for initial startups. It eliminates fuel delivery questions until after you are running smoothly.

I hope there is something here that is helpful.

Mike

@stovebolt-6 

Hi Rich

The electrolock on my '29 was bypassed on at some time and I never got around to dealing with that.

But, that said...

The '29 system is weird compared to later electrolocks in a number of ways.

First, I believe the electrolock is unlocked when the barrel is out "extruded", and locked when pushed in.

I also think that when this electrolock was locked, it did 2 things.

It opened/broke the circuit to the distributor, and it grounded that disconnected circuit.

Also, in 1929 the electrolock was wired between a continually HOT coil (fed directly from the battery through the ammeter) and the distributor, which was very different from later ones where the electrolock was wired between the battery and the coil, leaving the coil COLD when the ignition switch is off.

If you have the electolock off of the distributor, and your '29 is wired as per original, to hot wire you will run a wire from the side of the coil normally connected to the electrolock to the distributor terminal that WAS connected to the lectrolock and is connected to the insulated side of the points (which should also be connected to the condenser wire).

For testing...

With the electrolock disconnected from the distributor...

You should have 6 volts at the coil at all times.

With the electrolock pushed in and locked, you should have 0 volts at the end that connects to the distributor, AND that end should show continuity to ground.

With the lock out and the ignition switch turned on, you should have 6 volts at that same end that connects to the distributor.

I THINK and HOPE this is right, and if I'm wrong I hope someone corrects me.

I'm attaching a link to a wiring diagram for your convenience in case you don't already have one:

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevywiring/pdf/2930wiring.pdf

Hope that helps.  🙂

Thanks for the tips guys. So I ran a hot wire to the distributor.  I had to make up a terminal with the insulator from another distributor. Silly me I thought the little plastic strip that comes with the points was enough insulation on the inside… It was not. I fried the points and hopefully nothing else. I am assuming the lack of a better insulator was the issue.  I will try again with the old points and some plastic washers. 

On the positive side I did get the oil pump tested. I had to take apart an old distributor because there is no slot in the pump for a flat bit to fit into. The slot is on the distributor. But anyway oil gets to the top.

I have a fuel set up but Im not sure how it will work. Once the bowl was full the gas just leaks out where the air filter mounts. 

@ole-olson Thanks Ole, So I will retry the hot wire with better insulation. See my update.. I cooked the points instantly I assume due to it grounding out.

@stovebolt-6 

Hi Rich

The current supplied to the terminal on your distributor needs to come from and travel through the coil first (as per my above post).

Otherwise you WILL fry the points immediately.

@stovebolt-6 

Regarding the fuel...

Your float and needle valve aren't doing their job (probably stuck due to old varnish etc).

You will probably need to remove and clean, otherwise you'll just be flooding the engine with gas.

Chip is the resident expert on Carter carbs here and hopefully he will be by to help you on that.  🙂

@ole-olson Ole, I put a jumper between the + side of the coil and the distributor. I replaced the insulator with something better I had from an old distributor. The condenser and wire from the coil are on the stud into the points. The stud has no continuity to the distributor body. It does have continuity to the moving side of the points. I think that all correct at this a point. But I get no spark. 

Here where it gets weird. The + side of the coil has 6+ volts. When I connect the jumper to the distributor the distributor is getting less than half a volt.  The power at the coil end of the wire also drops to less than half a volt when the jumpe is connected. Crank the engine and no spark at the plugs.

I understands the no spark but where is the power going when I put the jumper on the coil? 

The electrolock was connected to the positive side of the coil. The wiring diagram I have doesn’t specify but when I took it apart I labeled the wires for each side of the coil and put them back the same way. 

What am I missing?

@ole-olson I did clan the bowl and the needle valve. Maybe I adjusted the float incorrectly. I can deal with that later. The choke iOS now stuck open as well. I never worked on an updraft carb before so I tried ot keep it simple. Someone already messed up the screw heads anyway so my chances of tackling it apart are nonexistent. Thank you for the help. I really do appreciate it.

@stovebolt-6 

The voltage on the distributor side of the coil will depend on whether the points are open or closed.

With open points and no current flow you should have 6 volts.

With the points closed and current flowing there will be a voltage drop across the resistance of the coil which will amount to nearly the entire voltage, provided there is no resistance in the points etc.  (so essentially testing at 0 volts)

This is normal.

PS

The stud on the distributor SHOULD have continuity to the distributor body when the points are closed, but not when they are open.

Try this...

Make sure your points are clean and show continuity when closed

Have someone hold the end of the high tension coil wire about a 1/4 inch from a ground.

Install your jumper wire.

With the distributor cap off, CAREFULLY use something non-conductive to open the points.

You should get a spark.

If not, you might look at your condenser for the problem.

@stovebolt-6 

See the PS above.