Trying to find a reamer so I can put my front end back together. Anyone know we’re to get one Thanks. The old site had so much participation, I don’t see site site making it. Not user friendly , Loved the old one. Thanks for any help
Glad you made the trip over Kevin. Participation is growing. I hope you find the tool you need.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
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1938 Master Business Coupe-Sold, now living in New Jersey
1953 210 Sedan
Kevin,
I watched ebay and found one for the 29 and 31. If 32 is the same I can check the size and let you know.
Dave
- @david-dunton Thanks really love the other board and participation. Hope this site will catch on. Instructions says .005 bigger then pin. Pin is .732 . So I’ve been looking for a .737 pilot reamer about 10 inches long.
@david-dunton Thanks Dave. Bought one tonight. I think I’m on the right track. Thanks for the help. I have 2 cars to do and try to do all I can myself with advise and help from friends.
Even after reaming you may have to lightly hone the bushes to do the final finish. I use adjustable reamers and only go to a very tight pin fit then hone for the final fit, never used a exact size reamer to compare the fit.
Tony
@kevin-ray Kevin, hope all went well with your King Pin installation. I have a 1929 Chevy Truck which I am in the process to replace my King Pins and I have removed the wheel and drum assembly thereby exposing the king pin and bushing.
As I see the top of the pin and bushing, I realize there must be some driving shaft tool to remove the pin and bushing but with the limited height from the underneath of the fender to the king pin, I realize before I begin, I should ask for assistance. With the above limited height available, how did you remove your king pins and bushings, then do the reaming required and then finally installing the new bushings and pins.
And, did you find a set, so to speak, that supplied the pins, bushings and reamer as one package? If so, who was the supplier?
Any help is greatly appreciated. I attached a picture of the top of my exposed spindle/knuckle with the top of the king pin and bushing displayed.
Thanks,Gary
Your picture shows a missing dust cap at the top of the steering knuckle. That is pried out unless it is already missing. The king pin is held in the axle by a special tapered pin held on with a nut. The nut is removed and the pin gently driven out so the king pin can be removed. I always take the steering knuckles to the bench to remove the bushings, carefully press in new bushings, and ream them.
It's been awhile I may be leaving something out. The Filling Station has the king pin kits and may have instructions on how to do it. The 29 service manual is a little light on this subject.
https://store.fillingstation.com/detail/FS-112/Chevrolet_19281933_ALL_19341939_12TON_KING_PINS.html
Dave
Just noticed The Filling Station put the instructions just below of the parts listing. Their picture shows the special pins that come new with the kit.
@david-dunton Thanks David. yes my original plan is to get that king pin set from FS. I did see the FS info on the King Pin job. My question above, to Kevin-Ray, is that with my limited amount of room between the top of the king pin to the above fender, how did he remove the king pin, drive out the bushing, install the bushing, ream as necessary, the install the k pin.
While I was waiting for his reply, I am at the point of dropping the front A Frame with knuckle/spindle assembly.
The passenger side is disconnected but the driver side lower two backer plate bols castle nuts are resisting disengagement. I've applied penetrating oil, even heat, but those two c nuts are mild steel and are loosing shape leading me into grinding the nuts off.
The wacky part of these nuys is that they do not fit SAE or metric wrenches or sockets without providing looseness. So as I try to remove them, they are rounding off.
My new plan is to take the full assembly and new pin pkg to a local machine shop.
As to the king pin top cap missing in the photo, there was no cap. They previous owner filled the cavity with some rubber or gasket compound that I had to slowly chisel out.
The more I look at that above open area in the wheel well area, the more I feel the whole cross frame wiyh knuckle assembles must come out to do the job.
Any other ideas or thoughts you may have is also appreciated.
Thanks, Gary
Yes, the steering knuckle should come off to the bench. I could not find a local guy willing to do the job. Once the lock pin is removed the king pin drives out from the top.
Dave
If you have a spring and axle shop or a shop that works on big trucks close by, they will usually take king pin work since they deal with it every day.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
There are many good people. If you can't find one, be one.
1938 Master Business Coupe-Sold, now living in New Jersey
1953 210 Sedan
@junky I have a reamer, If someone needs it, let me know.
I have always taken my spindles to have the bushings honed to size. However, my guy has retired and I don't know if there is anyone around who can do it for me any more.
Mike
Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat





