I am unable to remove disc wheel hub from my 1926 Superior Series V Coupe using 2 types hub pullers (attach to wheel studs, screw onto hub) and sledge hammer. First without heat and then with heat. Vehicle has had problems with transmission fluid leaking into differential (overfilling) and leaking out at wheel hubs for years. Hubs were heated to over 800 degrees using a torch resulting in smoking and dripping oil but no popping of hub. Any recommendation on how to proceed would be great. It's a beautiful car but has a driveline problem at differential end.
You could go 'Rube Goldberg' on it. 😉
When I first got my '28 Canopy Express, the left rear hub threads were totally mashed and screwed up by the previous owner, so I couldn't use a hub puller. I also found that he pounded in a hex-shaped rod in for the key!
I ended up making a puller assembly using some threaded bars, 2v4s, a couple of pieces of angle iron, two 1 inch square steel bars, and a standard puller to yank the hub off of the axle. The assembly 'clamps' onto the rim , the standard puller yanks on the two 2 steel bars (that attach to the rim stuff), and I used a sledge hammer to pound on the standard puller.
I pre-tightened the puller quite a bit and whomped on it with the sledge. After a few good whacks, the whole wheel popped off with a big boing!
Below are some pics of the setup.
Cheers, Dean
Dean "Rustoholic" Meltz
San Leandro, CA
3511 posts on vccachat.org
Lurch -1927 LM one ton truck - tinyurl.com/Lurch-VCCACHAT-Gallery
Justin - 1928 AB Canopy Express (1/2 ton truck) - tinyurl.com/Justin-Stovebolt-Gallery
I’ve never tried it but I heard that some guys will back the axle nut off a little and then go drive it, and maybe in circles will get it loose.
Yes, I read about this, unfortunately car is not drivable with break between driveline and differential.




