@clement-thurn 

Well done!   👍

Glad to hear it went well for you.  🙂

Thank you...it wasn't as hard to do as I imagined. You people on here are awesome ! 

Posted by: @clement-thurn

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You people on here are awesome ! 

Be careful, you don't want to be responsible for Ole needing to buy a larger hat........

Sooooooooo, bought a new battery. Car started up just fine Sunday morning, idles perfectly, sounded great. Took out for a road test. It's STILL hesitant upon acceleration !!! Took back to my garage, adjusted the distributor a tiny bit, ( seems like it's right where it needs to be ) re adjusted air mixture screw on carburetor, ( again, seems to be right where it should be ) took out again,  same thing. I'm starting to think it's a fuel issue. Could I have the float set too high or too low ?? It's a Carter W-1, have no idea what exact model, there are NO serial numbers or a tag on it. I took it completely apart and cleaned carefully and installed new gaskets , etc. as needed. I am really at a loss here. Thanks again. 

Stumbling on acceleration is text book for an accelerator pump issue. With the car off pump the throttle while looking down the bore of the carburetor. You should see a strong stream of fuel.

Ok...will let you know what I see. The accelerator pump was new and installed when carb. was rebuilt. 

@clement-thurn 

Does it hesitate on every acceleration?  Or just on heavier acceleration?

Follow Tiny's advice first.  If your accelerator pump is working...

I have had a hard time keeping my heat riser valve working.

So I make sure it sticks in the warmed up position when it does stick.

When the valve is stuck, the truck runs fine except when I really push it.

Then it is hesitant to respond until the manifold is good and hot, which can take some time (at least several minutes).

I just pull the choke out a little when I need it for the first few minutes, and then I'm of to the races (so to speak).

I'm used to doing that anyway, as it seems I have always had to do it with all of our Chev sixes with Rochesters on them amyway.  🙂

The heat riser valve is in the correct position and moves freely and correctly. After running the car at idle for several minutes, it was moving as it is supposed to. As for the fuel coming into the bowl, is it supposed to shoot in  a stream ( like coming out of a hose ) or just have several drops come in ? Mine was coming in several drops and running down the inside of carb. body each time I moved the accelerator linkage. ( before starting the car ) The accelerator pump seemed to be moving freely ( took the cover off and it was moving fine ) I DO have a small fuel leak coming from the lower movable shaft that the accelerator linkage is hooked onto, that is not making me happy. I'm almost ready to get a whole new carburetor. ( I tried to replace the lower shaft with one from a spare similar Carter I have, but couldn't get the screws loose on the round flap)  

Tiny , just re read your post....I do NOT have a strong stream coming , several drops.............see my previous post..........

Posted by: @clement-thurn

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Tiny , just re read your post....I do NOT have a strong stream coming , several drops.............see my previous post..........

You found your stumbling on acceleration issue I believe. The first thing I'd do is pull the cover off of the float bowl and check for debris in the bowl. It doesn't take a lot of fine junk to plug up those tiny passages. I was having stalling out issue with the 38 and found the junk shown below. The big piece shown with the needle valve was resting between the needle valve and the seat and would starve the engine for gas when it would occasionally fully block the flow. If you don't have any debris in the bowl you'll need to look at the accelerator pump plunger and see if it's split. It's kind of like a toilet plunger in that it must make a good seal around the edge to adequately pump the gas into the throat of the carburetor. If there's no debris and the accelerator pump plunger is OK it's time to have a discussion with whoever rebuilt your carburetor. I'm not saying they messed up but if they're rebuilding carburetors they know enough about them to help you diagnose the issue.

Ok, thanks, Tiny. That is 1 big piece of debris !! I'll check on both of those issues Monday and see what is going on. The annoying part is , it was a new plunger. The old plunger was very degraded and looked terrible.  Interesting. If the plunger is not broken or split, should it be lubricated with anything before re assembly or not , or just get a new plunger ?   

I'm not aware of any lubrication that would last. Gasoline is a very strong solvent and will wash away any petroleum based lubricant pretty quickly. If the plunger isn't damaged I suspect a partially plugged passageway. You might try blowing compressed air backward through the passageway. It's possible the degraded plunger shed some minute particles that may be plugging the passage. Blowing backward through it may dislodge any that are there.

@tiny 

Hi Tiny

Information I have says arm that operates the pump was supposed to be oiled at regular intervals,

and at the same time, oil was supposed to be run down the accelerator plunger stem onto the top side of the leather cup.

I guess they figured if the leather would keep most of the gas down on the bottom side, it would keep some of the oil on the top side.

At any rate, I don't think a little oil will hurt anything.  🙂

Very well could be Ole. I can't imagine gasoline not soaking through leather but shoot, if I knew everything I'd have already bought that winning Powerball ticket...... 😀

@tiny   Didn't Chevgene say to cross a couple of spark plug wires then start the engine. The backfire will (most of the time) blow out any obstruction in the passage ways. I can't remember if it was specific 2 cylinders to cross wire or just any 2. I would think any 2, but......

Dick