I'm no electrician but I believe the correct term would be "parasitic load" rather than a "short". A short usually results in letting the smoke out. YNZ Yesterdays Parts sells pre-made harness kits that are of high quality but are expensive. They also sell wiring and connectors if you want to do it yourself. I bought the wiring for my 38 from them. Rhode Island Wire also sold harnesses. I've read they are no longer in business. The Filling Station (ad at the top of the page) sells harnesses.

https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

Just an update on R.I. Wiring - they have been sold to a new owner which is Small's Auto Wire. The phone number is the same as R.I. Wiring which is (401) 789-1955. They have retained all of the wiring harnesses and schematics that belonged to R.I. Wiring. I have used both YNZ and RI Wiring and found both to be high quality.  My most recent order for supplies from Smalls/RI was in March 2026 and the service was excellent.

@michael-falise Thank you, Sir! I'm going to give them a call.

@tiny I called Small's and asked for a price on a complete rewiring kit. I was a residential and commercial electrician for 17 years and then an electrical technician for the Air Force on the Minuteman Missile facilities, so I could surely rewire it myself. The pre-made kits usually are awesome, but expensive. The kit from the Fillingstation is over a grand, not surprisingly. I haven't looked under the dash to see the condition there, but under the hood is pretty bad and I expect the under dash to be as bad. We'll have to wait and see. The car runs and drives, has turn signals that aren't working at the moment. I need to do a thorough inspection to see what I HAVE to have first. Thanks for all your help.  I didn't know my subscription had expired and just renewed.

@jerry-berry Glad you re-upped. Glad to have you aboard. I admire your knowledge in the electrical field. Electricity makes my head hurt. 😀 I realize that a parasitic load is technically a "short" but in the automotive world lexicon a "short" generally refers to a dead short that involves smoke and fire. If you tell someone you have a "short" in your car, their mind almost always jumps to that over the battery draining over night. Just trying to make sure we're all speaking the same language.

@tiny You're right, Tiny. The parasitic load is the hardest to trouble shoot. As an example, a switch that feeds the tiniest current flow through a light bulb, can run the battery down unbelievably quickly. The C-5 Corvette owner's manual says that parasitic current flow will run the battery down in 23 days if not running or charged, and, while in Italy with my 02 Vette, my battery wouldn't start the car on day 24...lol. I think I found the problem yesterday, fixed what I thought was wrong and did not trickle charge the battery overnight. Going out shortly to test my theory with crossed fingers. While checking, I found that my hydraulic brake light switch is inoperative...hard to find a switch with screws for wire connections rather than clip on connectors.

@tiny Tiny, I don't think I got a notice to renew. Yes, I know I'm an adult who shouldn't need a reminder, but...I'm old and that's my excuse and I'm "stickin' to it"!

@jerry-berry, if you get the G&D magazine in the mail, I believe it has your membership expiration date printed near your name and address. 😉

Cheers, Dean

@rustoholic Thank you. I don't get the magazine, so didn't know it was due. Also, I would have thought they would restrict your login if you hadn't paid, but I've been fairly active since my membership expired and I thought, "all is well".  Anyways...if you're going to own an old timey car or two, or three, you better be a member of VCCA if for nothing else, the wealth of knowledge all of you have about these old cars. Thanks very much for the note on dues. have a great day!

Well, I fixed the parasitic power drain issue. I had to spend some time under the dash and checking and repairing some bare wire issues because the wiring is so old. And after that, I located the trouble...but I'm too embarrassed to tell you what was wrong. Anyway it's all good now.

I searched the web looking for a hydraulic brake light switch and found a few venders who sell what looks like mine, but they're listed up to 1940 but not 1941. They were expensive as well. I found one on the NAPA web page that didn't have screw in cable connections, but the spade type. So, I just bought one from NAPA that should arrive at the store tomorrow. I'm getting antsy to be able to drive the old car, but it's not too safe doing it without brake lights. So, maybe tomorrow.  Thanks for all ya all's help responding to my posts...you're a bunch of pretty smart fellas. 

@jerry-berry I converted my 38 to the newer lever type switch. I mounted it to the floor board to activate off of the brake pedal lever and ran two jumper wires to the wires at the pressure switch. I was having to replace the pressure switch almost every year because they would get to the point I'd have to lock them up to get enough pressure to turn the brake lights on. Since you don't get the paper G&D, your notice might be part of the monthly update members get sent to their email. I don't know that but that's the way I would do it if I were in charge. When a club member's membership expires, it doesn't effect the log-in other than not having access to member benefits. You won't be able to access the Members Only area & the data there and/or use the Member Roster and the like.

@tiny Hmmm...not sure what to do about that. I don't think I'm getting the monthly email letter.

It might be going to your junk folder. If you're not getting it you should contact Member Services.

@tiny I am getting notices of posts so I thought I should be getting the magazine???