Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks
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Vibrates even with clutch in and trans in neutral. I'm thinking I bolted the Pressure Plate in in the wrong place. I thought I marked it but that's the only thing I can think of. The flywheel was not removed and it was fine before. The pressure plate was rebuilt but that doesn't seem that it would be the problem. It's a clean rebuild. Neutral and clutch in should completely take the trans out of the equation. So if it's the pp in the wrong place, I'm almost thinking I can leave everything in place; access it from the bottom; unbolt and turn the pp one set of screw holes at a time and see if any location fixes it. I mean, anything is worth a try short of pulling everything all back apart. Yes? No? Maybe?
@tiny Tiny, You might want to re-think that post regarding the pressure plate being out of the equation.
Mike
Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat
True that Mike. The Pressure Plate is actually bolted to the flywheel. So in a static config the pressure plate always holds the clutch to the flywheel. Only when the clutch is pushed in does IT disconnect the clutch from the surface of the flywheel. But the PP is always there.
Oh and hey Tiny. Long time. Did you sell your 38?
But the question is, could the PP being in the wrong slot actually make that much difference?
OK. I'll delete my reply to prevent confusion.@tiny Tiny, You might want to re-think that post regarding the pressure plate being out of the equation.
Mike
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
There are many good people. If you can't find one, be one.
1938 Master Business Coupe-Sold, now living in New Jersey
1953 210 Sedan
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
There are many good people. If you can't find one, be one.
1938 Master Business Coupe-Sold, now living in New Jersey
1953 210 Sedan
Surely a sad day. I guess we are truly only guardians after all. I hope you left a note in one of the hidden panels. Maybe wrapped in a $5 bill. That'd be cool to find in 50 years.
@skidplate The pressure plate does not have a specific orientation on the fly wheel. It should mount in any location and not vibrate. That being said, YOUR pressure plate could have some abnormality that has affected its balance. Your plan to remove the bottom cover for a close look is a good one.
Mike
Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat
Thanks Mike. There was some mention to that effect but yes. There's only 3 positions it can be in and there's no way only one is the correct one. It has now been returned to its proper static location (up on jacks) in preparation for a closer look. And Oh god please let it be something simple.
Ok, so I pulled my clutch cover and looked at the pressure plate real close. Undid all the plate bolts and actually rotated it around to each of the other two bolting positions. Everything looked fine with nothing out of place or binding up. Couldn't find any location that looked more comfortable than the next. Bolted it all back up nicely and moved on.
Next thing I did was pull my plugs to make sure nothing was firing badly. All good. Pulled the valve cover and went back through my valve adjustments. They were all very slightly sloppy so I tweaked those a little bit. Still not perfect but only by a nats ass. Put all that back together and walked away for awhile. Tried to think of anything else I may have done that would cause this and I came up with only one other thing.
When I pulled the trans for the clutch work, I found the rear trans mounts to have the consistency of bubble gum. 80 years old rubber... not too surprising. I had some 1/2" rubber laying around so I cut the right fit for both sides of the mounts. Bolted everything up nicely with the clutch install and continued on.
So here's my theory. This engine wasn't meant to have such firm mounts and because of that, I'm feeling a vibration that has always been there. I know that's grabbing at straws but that's all I can come up with. I going to loosen the bottom side nuts of the mount and see if any difference is made. If so, I'm going to run with it. I'm thinking I'll locktight the nuts with a very slight torque so they won't fall off. The trans will be setting on a nice firm pad but just not locked down tight like it is now. Still bolted down, just not real firm. I'll let you know if that was it. Cheers
Did you check the pilot bearing when replacing your clutch and pressure plate? Be sure to replace your motor mounts or your fan will eat a hole in the radiator.
Lou
I replaced the pilot bearing when I replaced the clutch but to be honest, I never got a real good fuzzy with the way in went in. When I set the transmission back in place, the last half inch or so didn't just slide right in. This was the old style brass bearing and you couldn't really tell if it was in far enough or too far or straight for that matter. I drove it in a little past flush. Probably should have opted for a ball bearing type. Do you think that might be the problem? Damn I'd really hate to pull that all back apart. And how do you ever know if it's set in place properly?