Attached is a picture showing 1941 passenger car rear shock absorber links, 42-48 are different. The stud on the right angle end, going into the shock lever arm, is tapered only requiring a fine thread nut and lock washer.  The washer and bushing kit for the straight end of the link is 3798378A.  Hope it helps, Mike 
 

Hi Mike, thank you for your response and pictures.
Yes I do need the shock link w/nuts & washers as you mentioned thank you. 
After reading my manual further today I found I also need a bronze bushing, not available. The manual mentions a bronze bushing that is pressed into the grommet at the end of the shock absorber arm. The link stud fits into that. I’ll ask a machine shop to make me one. 
Thanks again.

John,  Unless I’m mistaken, I don’t believe bronze bushings were used in the rear of the 1941 passenger cars.  Master Deluxe models were designated as AG Series and Special Deluxe designated as AH Series.  The attached picture is from the 1942 Master Parts Price List showing the applications for Group 7.377.  Commercial vehicles used bronze bushings pressed into rubber grommets  

On passenger cars the right angle end of the link is an interference tapered fit directly into the shock lever arm.  The straight end of the link uses two cupped washers and two rubber bushings on each side as shown in part number 3708378a that you referenced. Chevy of the 40’s part number 5328600 is the assembly that includes the link, the cupped washers, and the rubber bushings. 

Mike, the problem I see with my right angle of the link is that it fits loose in the end of the shock lever arm. So I thought that the bronze bushing mentioned in the manual (pg 58, fig17&18) would solve that problem. Then the stud from link would not be loose steel on steel. 
John

Good morning everyone and thank Mike for responding again, this is the question I should have asked from the start.
If there is anyone out there with a late 30s or 40s car with knee action shocks could they please have a look under at a rear shock. Please check to see if the right angle stud of the link sits loose in the end of the shock lever or is there some kind of bushing taking up the slack in that hole. Thank you. 
John

John,  I have spare rear shocks and links that I can take pictures of, or measure if need be, however, the original lever arms have a tapered hole and the link has a tapered stud. When the stud is pulled into the tapered hole it becomes an interference fit much like a tie rod end or ball joint.  

I see, but what holds the stud in the hole?

Mike, how is your link stud secured to the shock arm? On my shocks the stud was not secured in the lever so I thought a bushing was needed there.

Sorry that should have read “on my shocks the link stud was not secured in the shock arm so I thought a bushing was needed there”.

John, I’m confused.  If you’re asking what holds the stud into the link, it’s molded into the rubber, it should be all one piece.  If your stud has separated from the link, it’s a common failure and you’ll have to get a new link.  If you asking what holds the stud into the shock lever arm, just a washer and a nut.  The pictures show an after market link where the tapered fit protrudes too far through the shock arm so a flat washer with an oversized hole is allowing the assembly to be pulled tight.

Mike, thanks very much for your detailed explanation. My shock definitely did not have anything fastening the link to the arm.
I will go to the machine shop that has my shocks & links to check out the condition of the links and may have to buy new links. John