Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks
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I have no spark to the points. I’m in the process of re-wiring and have verified wire resistance to the coil are proper or replaced. The existing condenser is testing at about 7.5 ohms. Shouldn’t that number be considerably higher? It had no spark before I started the re-wire party either.
If bad as I expect is this specific to my 1915 H4 Chevy or is there one that I can pick up at O’Rielly?
Thanks in advance for commenting.
Paul
I don't know the answer to your condenser question, but I have a copy of Chipper's ignition troubleshooting advice. See the attached file.
Hope this helps. Dean
Dean "Rustoholic" Meltz
San Leandro, CA
3511 posts on vccachat.org
Lurch -1927 LM one ton truck - tinyurl.com/Lurch-VCCACHAT-Gallery
Justin - 1928 AB Canopy Express (1/2 ton truck) - tinyurl.com/Justin-Stovebolt-Gallery
@rustoholic @wheelmang Dean and Paul, A typical symptom of a bad condenser is that you would get a single spark then no more. Most "over the counter " condensers will test alike. Any one available at the parts store that will fit in the space available should be a suitable test part and possible permanent solution.
Mike
Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat
Thanks guys. I'll hopefully post later of my success.
We have a running car. I replaced a suspect coil wire and still no start and then replaced the condenser with a NAPA RR174SB and it started on the third turn.
Thanks for the guidance.
Paul
Perseverance or stubbornness?? No matter, it paid off. Congratulations.
Mike
Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat
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