1929 engine bearing...
 
Notifications
Clear all

1929 engine bearings

 

lou mccarrell
(@lou)
Estimable Member Registered
Joined: 10 months ago
Posts: 61
Topic starter  

are the main and rod bearings in the 194 6 cylinders poured Babbit, or shell bearings? 

OK, I found information in the shop manual, the bearings can be adjusted by removing shims. However, the manual states to adjust by feel, in other words, remove a shim and check for crank movement and/or turning the crank, feeling for tightness. I guess Plastigage was not available at that time. I would rather use Plastigage for a little bit more 'precision'. What would be a good clearance to shoot for? Any thoughts/advice?

This topic was modified 2 months ago by lou mccarrell

   
Quote
David Dunton
(@david-dunton)
Trusted Member Registered
Joined: 17 years ago
Posts: 78
 

Lots of great posts about this from the old experts on the old site. The recommendation usually was to follow the manual. 

Dave


   
ReplyQuote
35mike
(@35mike)
Reputable Member Registered
Joined: 15 years ago
Posts: 349
 

@lou Lou, To answer your original question, The main bearings are removable shells and the rod bearings are poured in place.

Many years I owned an auto parts store and automotive machine shop. My machinist held the opinion that babbit bearings were too soft to get an accurate reading with plastigage. I have never heard this theory from anyone else but he was very capable and knew his business as an automotive machinist so I am passing this info along.

 

Mike

Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
ReplyQuote
lou mccarrell
(@lou)
Estimable Member Registered
Joined: 10 months ago
Posts: 61
Topic starter  

Thank you gentlemen, I will follow the manual!

Lou


   
ReplyQuote
Chip
 Chip
(@chip)
Member Moderator
Joined: 56 years ago
Posts: 249
 

@35mike I have published my opinion on the use of plastigage on the older Chevrolet bearing babbitt many times in VCCA Forums and literature. I wholeheartedly agree with your ex-machinist. Plastigage is only good for an approximation of the gap in those babbitt bearings. 

I also totally agree with the description of fitting the bearings by the manual. It has worked for me in the past 50 years should work for the next 50 as well. Everyone needs to understand that these engines are not manufactured with modern techniques and materials. Therefore, they should not be treated the same as today's engines. Yes, basic processes, machining, techniques can be used but understand that there are critical differences. Use of plastigage is one.

This post was modified 2 months ago by Chip

How sweet the roar of a Chevy four
Participant on Chatter since 11/22/2001
19758 posts on the former Chatter site


   
ReplyQuote
Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
Reputable Member Registered
Joined: 6 years ago
Posts: 371
 

i vote for the old "feel for the drag, tap with the little ball peen" as well.

Even on newer stuff, I'm more inclined to use my micrometers and telescoping gauges.

The only time I would consider modifying the hammer tap method of setting the rods would be if the bearings had been re-poured with a much harder babbit,

in which case they may need to be set to a VERY light tap of the hammer.

Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts


   
ReplyQuote
Share: