Hi Robert

The head should be lifted over the tube, leaving the tube in place.

You really don't want to remove the tube unless absolutely necessary.

If I remember right, to remove the tube you would need to cut the end off near the fitting on the left side of the engine, which necessitates an entirely new tube and fittings.

In addition to Ole's comment I try not to flex the pipe any more than absolutely neccessary as it is inclined to fatigue and leak or break. Juggling the head back on around it is not fun on your own either.

Tony 

OK. It seems this oil tube that feeds the rocker arms actually just passes through the block on it was to the oil distribution piece that is on the other side. When I wiggle the tube it wiggles on both sides. Can I just remove the end where the compression ring is, straighten it and pull it through. When reassembling I would just make a new tube.

What you say you with experience?

For some reason the two replies did not show up until I just posted my last reply.

The condition of this engine is unknown. I pulled the head by lifting up over the tube as suggested. Although she looks good as there is no ridge at the top of the cylinders and I even see hone marks on the walls, I planned on having a machine shop disassemble the engine and tell me what is needs. The water passages are full of sediment and rust flakes so I think the block should be tanked even if no new parts are needed. I dont have the expertise to decide on my own if machine work is needed or bearings repoured.

@robert-loer To tank an engine it will need to be totally stripped so after stripping it scratch the water passages and blow them out. It wont hurt to scratch after the tank but you will most likely be surprised at the amount of crud you get both times.

Tony