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Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
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@stovebolt-6 

Another thing...

Which side of your coil is/was wired to the electrolock and which side is coming from the ammeter/battery?

Make sure you are jumping to the distributor from the electrolock side.

Technically, I believe your coil should have the + terminal connected to the ammeter, and the - terminal to the electrolock.

Sometimes coils got wire backwards.

Shouldn't make a difference here, but once running it will have a few effects such as  how much voltage is required to jump the plug gap.

It does however matter that you shouldn't be jumping from the ammeter/battery side of the coil.


Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@ole-olson Ole, I got spark! I was setting the timing and followed your wisdom and the voltage was fine. I removed a wire and cranked the engine and I got spark.

Now I just need to sort out my fuel/carb situation. The engine cranks but no pops or starts. The plugs still only have mystery oil on them from when I first got the engine. There was no gas in the cylinders that I could see or smell. 

But I am getting closer. 

Thanks 

Rich 



   
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Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
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@stovebolt-6 

👍. 🙂

Good to hear!


Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@ole-olson I believe the electrolock was wired to the positive side of the coil when I got the car. I just labeled the wires and put them back the way they were.

I can switch them and move the jumper so that the amp meter wire goes to positive and the jumper to the distributor goes to negative. I plan to just get a on/off ignition switch and install that in place of the electrolock at least for now. 



   
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35mike
(@35mike)
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@stovebolt-6 @ole-olson For purposes of getting the engine running with maximum simplicity, how about removing the electrolock from the equation, connect the negative coil post to the distributor (primary wire) and Jump from the positive battery post to the positive coil post for a switch. I am not familiar with the specifics of 1929 Chevy wiring but the aforementioned system worked on everything I have ever tried it on.

Mike


Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
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Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
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@35mike 

Hi Mike

I think that is essentially what Rich has done.

Keeping in mind that it looks like his coil was wired in backwards... I believe the - terminal on his coil is connected to the battery (via the ammeter) as the + terminal SHOULD have been originally wired

If I'm understanding him right, I think he did indeed run a wire direct from the + terminal on his backwards wired coil directly to the distributor bypassing the electolock as you are suggesting and managed to get spark.

And if I understand him right, I think he is going to put a simple switch in that wire from the coil to the distributor as a electrolock substitute.

The 1929 and 30 Chevs ran a peculiar ignition circuit.

It's the only system I know of where the coil is on the hot side of the ignition switch, and the ignition switch (electrolock) is between the coil and the distributor.


Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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Update… It runs… well sort of.  I replaced the needle valve and seat in the carb so the gas doesn’t just run out on the floor. The accelerator pump is shot and the bowl still leaks. I have a rebuild kit but I’m afraid someone already tried to get this apart. I heard these are a nightmare if you don't start with the right tools. So I am looking at the carb on the 31 engine I have which may be an option. 

I can’t post the video for some reason.  It ran for bout 10 seconds a few times. Not running great but I got it to run so I’m happy. If I can get it to keep  running maybe I can dial it in. I got 3 clunks at the end of the run and some serious backfire as well. 

I’ll see if I can find a way to post the video.

 



   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@35mike That was the plan and it worked.  Am getting an on/off ignition. I am not enamored with the electrolock.



   
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35mike
(@35mike)
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@stovebolt-6 Electrolocks are good when they work. I am more familiar with the later ones, beginning in 1935. I was not aware of the odd ball wiring situation on the 1929 Chevy. Sounds like you have carburetor issues to work on now. Good luck.

 

Mike


Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@35mike Yes, the carb is not good. The water pump leaks and the fuel pump needs rebuilding. I’m making a parts list right now.

“Buy the 29.” they said. “It’ll be fun”. they said. 



   
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35mike
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@stovebolt-6 "Fun" is somewhat subjective, don't you think?

 

Mike


Many Miles of Happy Motoring
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Stovblt
(@ole-olson)
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@stovebolt-6 

You'll get there... just think of it as "delayed gratification".  🙂


Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts


   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@35mike Yes it will be fun when I can drive it and know I did it myself. I am so grateful for sites like VCCA.org. When I restored my truck the Stovebolt.com was instrumental in my success and my sanity.



   
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(@stovebolt-6)
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@ole-olson Yes it sure is. I am learning. These earlier models are so different than the 50s cars and truck I’m used to. My brothers did early hot rods but that was almost 50 years ago. They were practically new then. Parts were much easier to come by.



   
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