@39master85 On the old Chat site you may find more information including adding a groove to the rear bearing to allow the oil to more easily return to the pan. The older chevys are known for "marking" their spot and in fact some owners claim that if it does not leak it is because it is out of oil!!.

@39master85 Welcome to the VCCA Deric. This should be a stand alone thread rather than a piggyback. I'll give it a day or so for you to see this reply then I'll split your post off into it's own thread.

@tiny - appreciate the welcome and I have seen the reply. I pick the car up next Monday so excited to see the motor back in it.

Any rear main bearing gap over 0.002" is likely to drip or seep a little oil. Just enough to be a visual problem but not even close to excessive oil use. If over 0.003" it will leave a spot whenever parked. The bigger the spot the more over that gap. Of course that assumes that the passage back to the oil pan is clear flowing. Like many older folks a "Depends" either onboard or on the ground can help.

@chip - you’re spot on. The lead mechanic took just a half a thousandth out of the shim set and it sealed right up. He put it right around 0.0015 now and after driving 20mi and putting her back in the garage there isn’t a drop to be found.

@39master85 I'm happy you got it solved. I notice your lower accessory horn brace is missing. It would be fairly easy to fab one if you want to add it back. Oddly, the best picture I have of mine is an "as found" picture when I was looking at the car in the barn before rescuing it.

I think I posted the "specs" on making that bracket in the old forum many years ago. I probably also have some good photos. Will take a look and get back.

The 1937 - 40 cranks had an oil slinger rather than a rear main seal. I have heard that a retrofit seal is available. I'll try to find out the number, if you are interested. PCV is use on 1928 and 1929 Chevys to create vacuum in the crankcase so oil would leak in rather than out. "My old truck doesn't leak, it's just marking it's territory".

@ralph-l-lankford and @tiny - I would appreciate any info on the lower horn bracket. I didn’t know I was missing one, but doesn’t surprise me. I also need to get those country horns working… They were working before the 12v conversion so I assume the relay fried or something. Thanks.

Posted by: @39master85

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@ralph-l-lankford and @tiny - I would appreciate any info on the lower horn bracket. I didn’t know I was missing one, but doesn’t surprise me. I also need to get those country horns working… They were working before the 12v conversion so I assume the relay fried or something. Thanks.

I found my city/country horn info sheets earlier today. I'll scan and post. I need to search the old forum to see if I posted the measurements.

More to follow!

@39master85 I found another photo of the bracket. This was taken during the restoration of the car and the bracket was hanging with other freshly painted parts. It's about 1/4th the way in from the left side of this photo. It should be fairly easy to fab one.

Inserted below is the installation info on the duo horns. I am still searching through the old forum to see if I had the measurements. I seem to remember fabricating mine to include the extra hole as depicted in the drawings.

It's kind of, sort of "fun" searching through the old forums. Found where I was installing my horns 20 years ago and needed a new relay. I bought it from the Filling Station for $12.50, so maybe I'm getting close to the bracket history.

More to follow!

@39master85 Yahoo! Finally found the info for the dual horn support bracket. Would have been a lot easier if I had my car. From the famous Gene Schneider:

The brace is 15" long. Each end is bent at a 45 deg. angle and is 1" long so the length from bend to bend is 13"...the width is 3/4".

@ralph-l-lankford Hazaa! Thank you for the trove of information on the horn and bracket. Now I have my next project ;-). Sincerely appreciate it Ralph and @tiny.