Using a bar in the harmonic balancer only allows you to rotate the engine in one direction.  If the stuck piston or pistons happened to stop in the upward direction, the bar method has limited success.  At the risk of being scolded, I’ll offer an alternative method that I have used successfully a couple times.  Remove the flywheel cover and using a very stout screwdriver or pinch bar, try to rotate the engine slightly in the opposite direction using the edge of the bellhousing as a fulcrum while the bar is against a flywheel tooth.  If you can move it a fraction in the counter rotation, go to the other side and move in the normal direction. I’ve found that alternating back and forth will rotate the engine further with each iteration especially with the lubricant in the cylinders.  While there is a risk of breaking a flywheel tooth with too much force, you might be surprised how easy it is to break free backwards.  

I will get it jacked up and try that this weekend. Thank you. As for lubricant on valves I assume just pour oil over rocker assembly. The valves with cap over them all bounce where as all the valves without that round cap on them where stiff with no movement. Are the ones with round caps intake and the ones without exhaust?

When standing in front of the engine, it should rotate CW correct?

@north1941 

The ones with the caps are intake valves.

The ones without are exhausts.

And yes, normal rotation is clockwise looking from the front to the back.

All the exhaust valves seem to be in similar position and unable to move. 

@north1941 

Interesting!

It appears that you have 2 normal 1941 15 inch 3/4 ton "artillery" style wheels... and 2 1946 2 piece wheels.

I can't make out the size on the 2 piece rims, are they 15"?

As a matter of interest...

The 2 piece rims you have are NOT what were commonly called "widow makers" and as long as they aren't badly rusted, and you know what you are doing when working with them, they are perfectly safe.

@north1941 

It appears that number 4 exhaust may be open, which explains the rust in that bore.

Try squirting lots of penetrating oil between the spring coils and on the valve stems as Dave suggested.

Give them some time, then tap the ends of the rocker arms directly over the valve stems with a block of wood and a hammer.

@ole-olson should the exhausts be really tight? I used a rubber mallet and was able to make the intakes bounce but all the exhausts seemed almost unmovable.

@north1941 

If the number 4 exhaust is open as it appears, then numbers 2 and 6 intakes should be partly open and thus harder to make them bounce.

Oil everything up and give it a little time.

PS

I see you edited the above post.  🙂

Use lots of penetrating oil and allow some time.

@ole-olson ya I was confusing myself there for a bit. 

So on the intake of cylinder 2 I was freeing the stuck valve and when the rocker became loose I noticed the push rod is extremely loose with lots of play. I could even lift it out. If tilted it's fall to the side lower into the engine. I noticed that on the others the rods are loose but seem to stay in a centered position. Maybe evidence of further issues there with #2.

@north1941 

Probably one of two things.

The valve is still sticking and not fully closing...

or

The pushrod is bent from the valve being stuck closed while the engine was turned over.

Pull the pushrod out and have a look at it first.

PS

That's the exhaust valve of number 2.  🙂

So it's seems a no go from the fly wheel either so I am probably safe to assume next level would be pulling the head and getting directly in there. 

Also been browsing around. Have a feeling I might need to do an engine swap with the amount of rust I see with my bore scope on #4. 

Posted by: @north1941

↑

Have a feeling I might need to do an engine swap with the amount of rust I see with my bore scope on #4. 

Check the VIN on your title. Many (most?) states used the engine number as the VIN through 1955. If your title is that way, changing the engine will remove that number from your vehicle. If that is the case, you should re-title the truck to a different number, possibly the unit serial number, to prevent any future transfer of ownership problems.

@tiny thanks for the heads up. Going to work on getting the front end apart so I can pull the engine out. Been looking around for some rebuilt 235s looks like it's a do able swap just might require some mount adjustments.

@north1941 when I look at Facebook Marketplace, I always see 235 and 216 engines for sale. Prices vary from reasonable to ridiculous. I bet you can find a nice 216 that will go in and run fine for less than $500. I would be looking to pay $200-$300 if it were me. The demand is not high.

Mike

looking to get new rims as mine I was told aren't in good enough shape to reuse either. would something like this work. I see its listed under trailer tires but the rim itself seems identical to what I have. 6lug 5.5 15". I guess my concern is that the center will work with the hubs. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/127194669238?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1KjxsAi1dTiWFQeD6ZvnsbA35&norover=1&mkrid=711-173151-913341-5&mkscid=101&itemid=127194669238&targetid=2374270860207&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9020944&poi=&campaignid=22884017899&mkgroupid=180575500541&rlsatarget=pla-2374270860207&abcId=10409734&merchantid=345822250&gad_campaignid=22884017899