Are you getting a spark from the plug? If not, you need to chase that gremlin.

As for the timing, when you turn the engine over by hand, watch the rocker arms to make sure that cylinder one is on a compression stroke on its way to reaching top dead center (TDC).  Be aware that the flywheel might not be put on with the correct orientation with respect to the crankshaft which would cause the TDC mark on the flywheel (U|C) to be at an incorrect location.

When I was resurrecting my '28 Canopy Express, I found that the previous owner put the flywheel on incorrectly, so the U|C mark did NOT appear in the little window with the pointer (on the flywheel cover) when cylinder number 1 was at TDC at the end of the compression stroke.

I did not want to pull the engine just to unbolt and re-bolt the flywheel on correctly, so I set cylinder number 1 at top dead center (TDC) at the end of the compression stroke (I had the oil pan off so I could see that the crank offset was pointing directly upward and I used a wood dowel through the spark plug hole to 'feel' that the piston reached it's top position) and then I painted a fluorescent pink line on the flywheel that lined up with the pointer in the window.

After that issue was fixed, I did the distributor/points timing.  I found the shop manual's instructions confusing, so this is the way I do it:

1. Set the spark timing lever (on a truck, it is the right lever as you sit in the driver's seat) to the full retarded position (pulled down all the way).

2. Hand crank the engine so that cylinder 1 is on top dead center on the compression stroke. With the oil pan off, you can see when the crankshaft is positioned straight up under cylinder 1. If the flywheel is put on correctly, you should be able to see a pointer that is pointing to the U|C mark on the flywheel. There is a peep hole on the passenger's side of the flywheel housing that can be viewed from the front of the truck by looking down the side of the radiator towards the firewall. The heater hose that goes from the exhaust stove pipe to the carb hides this peep hole. You have to disconnect the heater hose from the stove pipe, shove it aside, and then you can see the peep hole. On my engine, the flywheel was put on incorrectly, so I painted a fluorescent pink line on the flywheel when cylinder one REALLY IS at TDC on the compression stroke.

3. With the spark lever in the retarded position and the engine with cylinder 1 on TDC of the compression stroke, the points should just be starting to open and the rotor should be pointing to the distributor tower that holds the spark plug wire for cylinder one. The firing sequence is 1-2-4-3 with the rotor going clockwise. Loosen the 1/4-20 bolt that holds the distributor in place and turn the distributor until the points are starting to open. Then tighten the holding bolt on the distributor clamp.

Here's the starting sequence I use:

1. Make sure the transmission is in neutral. Do not start the engine with the clutch pushed in. This puts extra pressure on the center main bearing.

2. Turn on the gas to the carb from the vacuum tank.

3. Fully retard the spark lever (meaning the spark will happen at TDC during starting).

4. Pull the throttle lever down a little (maybe about 1/4 or 1/3 open). This is the lever on the left as you sit in the driver's seat.

5. Turn on the ignition.

6. Pull out the choke.

7. Step on the starter switch.

8. When the engine fires, leave the two levers alone for a brief moment, then slowly reduce the engine speed (pushing the throttle lever forward to the idle position) and slowly advance the spark lever (also pushing it up) to the fully advanced position. This will put the distributor at roughly 25 degrees advanced. For general driving, you leave both levers pushed towards the top.

Hope all this helps. Cheers, Dean

@rustoholic Thanks, My 28’ motor is all together so can’t drop the oil pan. I’m just trying to figure out how to start my ab National since decided to put new points on the distributor with out nowing not to move the crank. So now it won’t start. I’ve only had this car a few months so everything is new. I found #1 cylinder TDC The rotor is pointing towards the front of the spark plug wire on the distributor cap, I’ll try in the morning TY

Hi again,

I've dropped the oil pan with the engine sitting in my trucks many times. Getting the curved gaskets on the bottom of the front and rear of the engine is a bit of a challenge, but doable.

Here's a description of how I've dealt with these gaskets when I rebuilt Lurch's 1928 engine: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/394210/re-resurrecting-a-28-4-banger.html#Post394210  

If you need to troubleshoot whether you're getting a spark, here's a checklist that Chipper put together that works for both four cylinder and six cylinder engines:

You can check most of the ignition system before trying to start the engine. Connect positive post on battery to positive post on coil. Or you can turn on the ignition switch then remove the wire from the positive post of the coil. Quickly pass the terminal end of the wire past a ground to see if you get a spark. Or if you have a VOM or test light you can test the positive post on the coil with everything attached and a piece of paper between the points. You should get battery voltage or light the test light if the wire, ignition switch and battery are good. If no spark or voltage then check the switch, wires or battery. Once you have power to the positive post on the coil then you can test other components.

With the paper between points (or points open) you should have battery voltage on both coil posts and to the hot side of the points. If not check wires and terminal ends.

Once you have voltage to the points short across the points with a screwdriver. You should see and hear a spark. With spark at points, hold the end of the center coil wire approx. 1/2" from ground and short across the points. You should get a spark from the end of the wire to ground that makes a "Snap". If not check the condenser to see if it is attached to the negative post on the coil or wire to the points on the distributor and the case is grounded. If not spark or weak spark replace the condenser. Once you have a strong "snappy" spark from the coil center wire, test the points. Remove the paper from the points and open and close then by hand. If you get the same strength spark as shorting across them they are good. If a weaker spark, clean or replace the points. Once you have a good strong spark from the center wire operating the points, put on the rotor, distributor cap and center coil wire to the distributor cap. You are ready to start the car.

As you can see it does not take a second person to test and diagnose the ignition system with a set of points. Don't have to turn over the engine either.

If there is a problem with the engine starting or you have any doubts that spark is getting to the plugs it may take a person to hit the starter while another person holds a spark plug wire 1/2" from a ground. It can be done by a single person on a '29 to mid-30s Chevy by activating the starter switch with the left hand and holding the wire with the right. If your left hand is weak it also can be done by switching your hands.

Hope this helps, Dean

@rustoholic Boy that’s a lot of work 🤣You have me doing, I made it simple and it worked :

What happened was I took the points out without checking the distributor rotor location to #1 spark locations, So I ended up doing was made sure the #1 piston was TDC and the rotor was pointing towards the #1wire on the distributor and it started, as easy as that 

I'm glad that worked for you Gene! 

I heard stories about doing damage to the flywheel ring gear or starter if the spark was not retarded enough during startup, so I developed my process to ensure that there would be NO kickback when attempting to start the engine.

Then again, I might be related to Rube Goldberg, so I tend to lean towards the complicated!  😉

Cheers, Dean