The only thing I can offer is to make sure you do have ALL of the bolts out, which I'm sure you've already done.

Especially the hex head cap screws at the 4 corners right up against the main bearing caps.

Other than that, attack the problem at the "corners" of the pan where the pan is strongest due to the angles formed there by the sheet metal.

Do you have the splash pans removed?  It's MUCH easier to work on the pan when they aren't there.  🙂

What do you mean by splash pans?  We have taken some shields off.  

I believe Ole is referring to the pans/shields that run down the side of the engine that help keep splashing water off of the engine. Below are the pans on my 38. You just get a peek on the driver's side where the exhaust pipe goes through.

If those are like a floor for the engine bay my car did not have them when I got it.  

Notice the vertical shield bolted to this 1948 frame directly where the fuel line terminates on the passenger side. There is a corresponding shield on the drivers side.  The 1941 is the same.  They might not limit access as much as earlier models.

Mike

In removing the oil pan on my ‘37 Chevy 1/2 ton I recall having done the following.   I used a short piece of 1x4 wood for a buffer and a rubber mallet to bump (gently) at least two corners to break the gasket/pan bond, then using a putty knife, gently tapped into the corners.  It was worked around the pan sides, pushing and gently prying the knife up and down. The bond broke loose within a few inches of the corners enough so a flat blade screw driver could finish the job.  

Be certain ALL fasteners have been removed before replicating this process.

We got the oil pan off!  Used a Lisle 50210 Gasket Separator tool to do the job.  The blade has a slight curve to it and acts as a wedge.  We were able to get the tool started in a corner and tap it along the length of the pan cutting the pan off.  There is a cork gasket on the pan but there is also a heavy coating of a gray epoxy like sealant.  This sealant is rock hard.  A putty knife does not want to chip it off but a blade will with some work.  

Thanks for all of the help.  

I wonder what that stuff is? That's bizarre.

Gray epoxy type suggests J B Weld to me.

Went to my local NAPA an they had a product that was able to soften up the gray stuff and allow us to scrape it off.  Took a few applications and some time letting it do its thing but it is now off.  I have no idea what it was but it is gone now.