I'm about to tell you something you do not want to hear. Support the frame, ahead of the rear wheels, and detach the rear axle assembly from the truck. Roll it back or pull it back on a floor jack. The u-joint will stay on the transmission. It can be removed by reaching through the assembly with a socket and extension to remove a bolt and washer that secure the joint to the transmission main shaft. Good luck.

Mike

Your u-joint is different from what I encountered with Lurch's u-joint, but once you get yours out, you might want to check the slop in the u-joint bearings (trunions), the wear in the torque tube bushing, the condition of the clutch, the pressure plate assembly, the clutch contact surface on the flywheel, and the throw out bearing. If the throw out bearing is a carbon disc, you can get a replacement with a ball bearing, which is much better.

Last summer, I fixed a squeal in my u-joint and I documented the project on the Stovebolt website. Note, you might need to register with that site and log onto it to see the photos. There is no charge for the registration. Here's a link to the story: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/1503661/lurch-is-squealing-gotta-fix-him#Post1503661

Hope this helps. Dean

Thanks a lot for pointing me in the right direction. Since I am new to this type of vehicle, I just have to take the challenges as they turn up. So I will just study the removal of the real axle. Also waiting for the registration at Stovebolt.com

I suggest that you  get a copy of the repair manual and part numbers book. There are a bunch of repair manuals on ebay now.

Here are links to part manuals that are online. Using these, you can find out if a part (say the u-joint) was used for multiple years (it has the same part number), which will make it easier to track down parts.

1929-1941 parts book online - https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_41/index.html

1929-1054 parts and accessories book online - https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/parts/1929_54/index.htm

Cheers, Dean

Thanks for the links. It's a type OA truck 131, single rear wheel. I have problem finding the correct illustration on this page 1929 - 1954 Chevrolet Master Parts & Accessories Catalog

I have the printed repair manual for Chevrolet 1929-1936 passenger  & truck in danish. It's equal to the online Chevrolet 1934 shop manual 1934 Chevrolet Repair Manual. I think the way forward is to loosen the rear axle and slide it back. As Mike indicates. Picture below is from the 1934 shop manual

@u3493 You will not always find an illustration that is specific to your vehicle in the Master Parts Catalog. Those are for helping to identify the group number of the part you need.

Stovebolt is a great site, but not much activity over there for older models or un-modified trucks. 

I have a 1936 Chevy 1-1/2 ton truck so I can relate to your issues. Don't hesitate to send me a private message. I have a small stash of replacement parts.

I don't think you mentioned why you are taking your truck apart.

Mike

@35mike Good idea. The truck has been left sitting in a barn near Trondheim, Norway where my son married the owner's daughter. It came to the farm in 1933, and was in use until the beginning of the 70ties. It was built in a GM factory in Denmark. I have been restoring a Volvo P1800 1962(mine since 1983) and a Opel Kadett C 1979model(owned since 2019). I just got retired now at 67 years old,and I needed a new project to fill time and head. So I voluntered to give it a second life, since the owner had no plans. The engine was overhauled in 1959, and the cylinder walls looks very good. The head will need a workover. And all the mechanics, as well as the electrics will need to attended. The  engine block will be taken out and inspected, especially the lubrication. The outside shall remain with the patina of today. 

I'm still in the disassembly phase, but will need many parts, so your stash will be interesting

@u3493 

Hei u3493

I just reread this thread and I'm trying to figure out why you are trying to remove this.

Maybe I missed it?

Unless there is something obviously wrong with the universal join/drive shaft/rear axle, I wouldn't tinker with it.

The joint looks to have been oily and thus well lubricated.

I think I would have started with just draining the oil from the transmission and rear axle and refilling with new oil.

That's what I did with both my 1929 car and 1946 truck and have had no issues with either of them.

PS

Jeg har slektninger i Tønsberg og Moss og jeg reiste til Trondheim i 1991 da jeg var på besøk hos dem.

Så bestemte jeg meg for å lære litt norsk.  🙂

En vakker by i et vakkert land! 

Hyggelig, bare kom på besøk igjen. Jeg bor på Oppdal, ca 2 timer med bil sør for Trondheim. Vi har hus med plass.

The reason for doing this work, is that the head needs a full service with new valves, springs, seating, etc. It's an expencive job, and I need to make sure that the lubrication is fully working. For this reason I need to take out the engine block, and check the oil pump/screen and pan. I believe it's not possible to remove the engine without removing the transmisson first. Once the engine is out, I will also remove the front wheels/suspention, and make the front part of the frame accessible for rust preventive. There is a lot of oil dirt and I will give all the part a thourough cleaning/servicing

Hilsen Thor

@u3493 

Ahh...

That makes sense.  👍

It's great to see this wonderful old truck in the hands of someone intent on preserving it as you are.  🙂

I spent a night in the hostel in Oppdal in 1991!

And I spent some time the next day visiting the Felleskjøpet... which was of course the John Deere dealer.

I was touring western Norway by ferry, bus, and train at the time.

If I get the chance, I sure would like to pass that way again sometime and stop for a visit.

Good luck with your project!

Ole

PS

I realized a while after I signed out this morning that I made a silly grammar mistake in my previous post.

It's been bothering me all day, so I corrected it.  🙂

@ole-olson Didn't notice any errors. Here is the Felleskjøpet today. Still John Deer. My 1979 Opel Kadett in yellow

@u3493  I think you can remove the transmission top and then take out the engine and transmission together. The U-Joint should just slide out and come along for the ride. Great project. I'm glad you are leaving the appearance of the truck as it is.

Mike

@35mike Good idea. This will be my first attempt. Coming closer

Like Mike suggested remove the gearshift lever and the gearbox will slide out with the engine. Refitting as a unit will require a helper underneath to align the sliding part and splines but isnt a hard process. As for removing the oil pan i would be trying it before pulling everything out unless you want to do other things while it is all out.

Tony