Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks
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Hello Folks
Need some help on a 1930 Chevy Coupe front bearings. Doing a brake job and had to replace some worn out bearing on the front drums. I have the outer ones figured out but the inner bearings are throwing me for a loop. Took it apart last year and just getting it back together. I stayed with the original ball bearing style but confused on how the inner bearing goes back together. I pressed the bearings into the hub but confused about the part that is on the spindle and how it fits into the bearing. See the arrows below
I can push this into the bearing but it seems very tight on the felt seal. I am worried it will spin the bearing race on the spindle.
Am I over thinking this and will it be OK. I still need to pack the bearing with grease.
Thoughts on this issue? Again this is the inner bearing closest to the backing plate.
Also to confuse things I seem to have two extra pieces that look like bearing races. It has a part number of 109606 stamped on it. What is this for?
Some additional
photos of the extra parts.
Does anyone have a drawing of the front spindle bearings configuration that can share?
Thanks
Bob
Hi Bob
Maybe this cross sectional illustration from the 1941 parts book will help.
The illustration is of a later vehicle with hydraulic brakes, but the bearings, seal, hub and spindle should be the same.
PS The numbers are not part numbers, they are parts book group numbers. 🙂
Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts
Hi again with a little more
Looks like you've done everything right. 👍
You've pressed the bearing cups into the hub, set the balls and spacer unit into the bearing cup on the brake side of the hub, and installed the felt seal.
Right?
Soaking the felt with heavy oil before you pack the bearings will help with the drag situation.
There will still be a fair amount of drag with brand new felt, but that's okay. Good actually.
Ball type wheel bearings need to be adjusted up pretty snug compared to tapered rollers, and this plus the weight of the car will keep the bearing from spinning on the spindle.
It won't stop it completely, as the idea was that the inner race would very very slowly creep around on the spindle so all the wear didn't occur on just one side of the bearing.
Hope that helps. 🙂
PS
Not sure what the extra bearing cups are for, unless everything came as a kit meant to cover more than one application?
Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts
Thanks great information I will oil up the felt before putting it together.
Bob
Hello Bob Fields,
I googled searched bearing race 109606 and came across a hot rod forum dealing with hub, spindle and bearing/race questions. This was in one of the replies: "He noticed something I hadn't that's pretty funny. You have a Bearing number of 109606, that's the "race" number upside down! LOLOL 909601=109606".
Edit: Check out the Filling Station part: FS-178K and click onto and read description. It mentions replaces 909601.
Edit: Tapered roller races versus ball bearing races.
Aah haa!
Someone is far closer to Mensa material than I am! 🙂
Bearing number 909601 is the OUTER (adjusting nut side, and group number 6.317 in the above illustration) cup for ball bearings.
So those cups belong in the outer end of the hub.
That begs the question for Bob...
Did you change the outer cup in the hub? And if so, what number was on the cup you installed there?
Ole S Olson
Saskatoon, Sask, Canada
1946 DR 3/4 ton stake
1139 old site posts
Yes i am changing the outer bearings. These must be left over parts from the old ones.
Thanks
Bob
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