Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks
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37 Chevy Master Coupe. I've replaced wheels and tires. Made new shock mounts and installed modern shocks all around. Pulled all the engine sheet metal along with intake and exhaust. Having everything porcelain coated. Still waiting. Very slow and very overpriced. Cleaned and painted the block and bell housing then painted with high heat black. Touched up the firewall and engine area with normal black. Haven't upped everything to 12v yet but did install a main circuit breaker and multiple zone fuse block with a couple relays so I could isolate various lights and accessories away from the ignition and light switch. Both still control everything but they aren't taking all the current. Pulled the floor up and cleaned all the sheet metal. No rust anywhere no way no how. Coated everything then layer down 1\2" felt then new carpet. Made a bracket to mount new bucket seats. All in original floorboard holes. No drilling what so ever. Pulled the trans top and cleaned everything out real well. Didn't really need it but now it's really really clean. Repainted shifter and installed new knob. New oil and good to go. Tightened up everything that rattled in the trunk. The new spare wouldn't fit in it's slot so bought ratchet straps and installed eye hooks in existing holes and the spare now resides in the middle right over the axle. Tight and neat. The sending unit (as usual) was bad so I went ahead and pulled the tank and washed it out, reinstalled and replaced and tested the new unit. Works fine. Might last a long time. Stuffed more insulation around the tank before I closed it all up. Should muffle a little chassis noise. As everything from the tank forward had no filtering, I installed a replaceable filter with the glass bowl at the input to the carb. Also pulled and cleaned and replaced the bowl cork on the fuel pump. I'm running non ethanol fuel so far so maybe the pump will last awhile longer. I know I can get a 6v electric pump but I'm holding out. Ordered and replaced all the battery cabling. Also pulled the starter and repainted. Oh, also replaced the wheel bearings and seals with the more modern needle type. I'm sure there's a few things I've forgotten. I also hope that all of this typing was not for naught as I'm not sure it will even take my entry. Here goes maybe nothin.
Sounds like you have been busy. I would also suggest replacing all hydraulic components including steel pipes in the braking system, it would be very disheartening to damage the car due to a brake failure.
Tony
@skidplate I'm not sure where you got the whole pay to play thing but it costs nothing to register and post on Chat, as you can see. If you do choose to join we'd love to have you.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
When the site first switched over I did everything I could find to do and it invariably always took me back to Pay here or nothing. Can't explain it.
Anyway, on the subject at hand, strangely enough the car is so pristine that everything is completely rust free. So all the metal lines are beyond pristine. The rubber however is being replaced as needed. I haven't touched the wiring other than what was previously mentioned but will need to replace it all eventually too. I'll probably go to 12v and split between 2 6v batteries like I did my 37 Buick. It worked great on that one and (other than the Chevy battery box is somewhat smaller and could present a space problem) I'm sure it will work great here.
And before anyone says it... yes I know everyone wants all these perfect cars that have been found completely original to be left original. And yes, for those who love their car museums, you are entirely correct. But for those of us wanting to actually drive our old cars safely as well as comfortably while we're still alive, I say make it as reliable as possible and as comfortable as possible while doing one's best to keeping it as unmolested as possible. We can't have it both ways. And besides, they'll just laser print everything back to original when the time comes anyway.
And finally, it's good to be back. Cheers everyone.
I had to reregister to get on as my old log in did not work.
Joining the club is not required to register and post.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
Hey Tiny, just a suggestion, but would it be possible to put that "Here's how" maybe front and center at the top of the main heading? I know it's most desirable is to get paying members but if car clubs all over are having trouble attracting participants, the easier things are to participate... the better.
Even better, maybe streamlining the signup process would be beneficial too.
I think the process is built into the software. I don't know how much could be changed. It is a little different from some forums. That's why I wrote up the How To and made it a sticky. It's not difficult though once one reads the directions. The How To is a sticky at the top of the Forum And Website Usage forum.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
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