Howdy. Welcome to the VCCA's website and to the world of old Chevy trucks!  What a great story and a great truck!

I suggest a more modest approach to bringing it back to life and getting it back on the road.  Get it running and enjoy it as a survivor for a while before you tear it all apart. You'd be surprised how much fun it is to drive around in something that shows its age. Remember, it's only original once.

Get a copy of the shop manual, a parts book, and the owner's manual. The documentation in these books is invaluable. Many vendors carry reprints and there are usually quite a few on fleabay.

Before tackling anything, squirt some automatic transmission fluid (ATF) into the spark plug holes, oil the rocker arms and valve stems, take the oil pan off, remove all the sludge and squirt oil everywhere. The ATF will soak around the pistons and might even free up the piston rings. I believe the engine has a splash oil system, which means that there are oil reservoirs over the main bearings and the cam shaft bearings. These oil reservoirs probably are clogged up with sludge so clean them out too (use a small mirror to inspect them and Qtips to clean them out).

Do not attempt to turn the engine over yet. Let the oil soak in everywhere while you work on other stuff. I can tell you that the moment you get the engine started, you'll want to take it for a drive, so address everything else and leave the engine for last. 😉

While the engine is soaking, tackle other things, such as:

• Grease everything that should be greased.
• Change all the fluids.
• Get a set of good used tires or cheap new tires.
• Make sure that everything that is supposed to adjust can actually adjust. Wire brush and oil threaded parts so they can move.
• Flush the radiator and engine block with clean water.
• Make sure the brakes work.
• Throw an old blanket over the seat. 😉
• Take out the gas tank and have it cleaned and sealed.
• Lubricate the speedometer cable.
• Check the electrical system. If the wiring is shot, you might need to run a few new wires to essential parts to get it running and driving safely. Notice that your truck has a 6 volt system. That means extra heavy duty battery cables and larger gauge wire in the harness. Ensure you have a good ground to chassis.
• Etc. You get the idea. Make your way around the truck resurrecting all the mechanical systems. 

You always have the opportunity to tear it apart later and build it to your vision. Enjoy the process of learning about the truck without the stress of making things perfect from the get go.

My '28 Chevy 1/2 ton truck sat for over 60 years before I got it and I'm very thankful that I did not tear it apart when I first got it. My old survivor usually gets a lot more attention at car shows than the gorgeous trailer queens that their owners have dumped more money into than they are worth. Just sayin'. 

Celebrate every step forward and enjoy the journey!!

All my best, Dean

@rustoholic 

Hi Dean

Just one small point.

North1941's engine isn't splash oiled.  🙂

It's a "pressure stream" system so there are no gravity feed pockets above any bearings.

There are however lines and "nozzles" in the oil pan that feed oil to each connecting rod that are prone to sludging and plugging, which is of course catastrophic to rod bearings.

So... it's of course still a good idea to drop the pan, but it's the connecting rod supply lines that need special attention.

PS

to North1941

Welcome from me as well!

Nice to see another "art deco" truck owner!  🙂. 👍

And another 3/4 ton at that!

Welcome! What a neat project!

@rustoholic Thank you for all the information

I thought rebuild and don't even bother but that sounds like a great idea to get familiar first and see what we can make happen 😀 Manuals are a top priority at the moment. 

@ole-olson I am green here but thought it was 1/2 ton your saying it as 3/4 eh?

@tiny Thank you.

@north1941 

Yes, your truck is a 3/4 ton.  🙂

There are at least 2 things in your pictures that tell us that.

First, the extra upright and stake pocket just ahead of the rear fender on the side of the pickup box for a total of 3.

Second, the rear springs are mounted on top of the rear axle.  The springs on 1/2 tons are mounted under the axle.

If you want to be absolutely sure, measure the wheel base (axle to axle).

A 3/4 ton will measure 125-1/4 inches.  A 1/2 ton will measure 115 inches.

I can't quite make out the number on your serial number plate, but it appears to begin with an A.

Indeed it should for 1941.

There should be a second letter that determines the size of the truck.

To verify that it is a 1941 and not a later truck... 1941's should have the door lock in the right hand door handle, and the rear window is held in with a metal frame held together by screws (as opposed to the rubber molding used later).

Hope that helps!  🙂

PS

I'm a farmer on the prairies.

I don't think I've ever said "eh" in my life.  🙂

PPS

I see that you have auxiliary springs (sometimes called overload springs) on the rear.

My truck has those as well.

They were an after market item and Chevrolet didn't to my knowledge officially supply them as either an option or an accesory.

@ole-olson haha ya I was moved from the prairie early in life.

21AL01 - is what is stamped on the metal plaque. before the 6380.

@north1941 

One more thing we have in common then!  🙂

An AL serial number is definitely a 3/4 ton.

And your truck was built in Janesville Wisconsin in January of 1941.

@rustoholic I agree with you the survivor look is the best look.

Is there any concern that I should be aware of with the rust on the frame/suspension or is that an "if it's solid and no holes" not really?

My initial inspection only turned up the cab's floor to have rusted through, with not one hole on the body aside from some old farm patches from work damage. 

There is a silver box near the passenger's feet that I think is a heater unit.

Did that come as an accessory or stock?

Purchased Shop Manual, Parts Catalog, and Truck Manual.

Is this "Rear Axle Manual"  something to get as well?