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Shimmed body mounts

 

Steve Dalphonse
(@steve-d)
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Joined: 33 years ago
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Today I shimmed the body mounts. Everything went better than expected . After checking notes from when the body was removed I was pleased that the number and location of shims needed was the same as when the body was taken off.

 

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Nick Gurin
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New Guy has a basic question...

I have recently started on a 1940 1/2 ton Pickup project.

I received it with the cab sitting on the frame and at least partly bolted into place. Should I be expecting to have to do any shimming to the cab mounts? Or is shimming something that needs to be done only on vehicles with wooden frames?

(I am trying not to be too proud to ask stuff like this!)

Thanks,

Nick

Nick Gurin
Taos, New Mexico
1940 KC 1/2 Ton Pickup


   
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35mike
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Nick,

I make two different cab mounting kits that cover trucks from 1931 through 1938. I sell them to Jim Carter, The Filling Station and Classy Chevs USA. There are kits available that cover the 1939 through 1946 cabs, from these same vendors. I think you will find the kits to be pretty complete. Mine are supplied with segments af webbing that serve as an anti-squeak and can be moved from bolt to bolt as shims. I do not know if any provision for shimming is provided in the other kits, but I assume so. A short truck cab is a much more rigid assembly than a wood framed car body.

Mike

This post was modified 6 months ago by 35mike

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Chip
 Chip
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Because of variations in the manufacturing and assembly process shims are often required to adjust the door fit and other gaps like fenders, hoods, etc. I don't remember a vehicle that didn't have at least one shim.

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Steve Dalphonse
(@steve-d)
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Joined: 33 years ago
Posts: 94
Topic starter  

@chip I used several shims and on one mount double pads and a shim but that is what was removed. The doors and front clip are off and that will be the next step along with any re-shimming.

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Nick Gurin
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Folks,

My truck is a 1940 1/2 ton. When I received the project, it had been started by someone else. The cab was on the frame with fenders, grill shell and other sheet metal loosely attached. 

I just went through what I thought would be the relevant parts of the 1940 Shop Manual and did a couple searches online and have not found anything to state what the process is to determine if the cab/frame fitment is good as it is, if needs to be shimmed, or how to go about doing the job properly if it is needed.

Perhaps I should be posting these questions in another thread?

Thanks,

Nick

Nick Gurin
Taos, New Mexico
1940 KC 1/2 Ton Pickup


   
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Tiny
 Tiny
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Nick, you probably should have started your own thread in the Body & Interior forum. The OP was just stating what he did per the "What did you do today.." forum rather than asking a technical question. I was going to separate it from the OPs thread but I don't know how, or if it's even possible, with the new software. Having said that, there's a thread in that forum that I posted an answer to that you might find relevant.

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