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My journey to get her started - 1929 Chevrolet Truck

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Junky
(@junky)
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Hey one follow up.  Before all this, I drained the oil from the oil pan, poured in 5 quarts of new oil 10w-30, and then I poured off the drained old oil into the empty gallon container "only" to find out, there was 3 gallons of old oil.  Knowing there is some sort of upper reservoir in the engine that could be holding oil during my original oil drain, did I put in the 5 new quarts now totaling 8 quarts of oil in this engine???   If so, too much oil is also bad for an engine.  But please note, upon my installing the new 5 quarts of oil, I checked the dipstick that DID MEASURE FULL on its designated full line.

Any input on this issue will ease my mind.


   
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Junky
(@junky)
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Joined: 2 months ago
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Topic starter  

@chip Yes it was.  This brought back my memories back in the mid 60's of an old Mercury 4 door and its starting and especially its steering fight.  I love it.  Thanks Chip


   
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35mike
(@35mike)
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Joined: 14 years ago
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@junky On my vehicles that have a spark retard knob/lever, I always use it for start-up. That is why it is there. It is normal to use the spark knob when starting. I would not adjust the timing.

Many Miles of Happy Motoring
3469 Posts on Old VCCA Chat


   
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Junky
(@junky)
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Joined: 2 months ago
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@35mike Thanks Mike.  I will take your advice whole heartedly.  For now I will leave the timing as is.  I'll just check it to see what it is set at for my records.  I had previously read somewhere, that the reason for the Spark Advance Knob was for "Hand Cranking the Engine Startup" due to the slower rotation of the engine to get it started.  And once the engine started, you were required to quickly get back to the cab to press the knob back into place.  Kind of made sense to me at the time.

So my previous failed attempts at starting her were the duel application of both the Spark Advance and the Throttle Button which did not help.  Did that function only a few times, realizing I was getting nowhere.  Then I thought just using the Throttle Button would help get her started.  That did not help either.  That's when I did a rough/short carburetor semi rebuild, only the float adjustment, and needle and seat change plus a cleaning of what was exposed at that process (did not have the proper tools to take the carb fully apart).  And I rebuilt the Fuel Pump, cleaned out the fuel filter and changed the screen.  Since I was not utilizing the "Hand Crank Method of Starting" I did not see any reason to use the Advance Spark Button.  That button made no sense for me to use in my previous attempts under my understanding at that time.  And then yesterday, for the first time, I said, oh give it a try, it won't hurt.  Low and behold instant startup.  A little rough but started.  I waited about 10 seconds and push the knob back in and she smoothed out.  That's when I immediately took her up and down the street.  Yeah, break issues and possible greasing of the steering needed noticeable in that short ride.

And yes, she starts up easily now with the application of the Spark Advance Button.  I went through a lot of head scratching during the past three/four weeks.  I'm now bald.  Or at least that's my new claim of being bald.  Thanks again Mike.


   
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