Hey one follow up.  Before all this, I drained the oil from the oil pan, poured in 5 quarts of new oil 10w-30, and then I poured off the drained old oil into the empty gallon container "only" to find out, there was 3 gallons of old oil.  Knowing there is some sort of upper reservoir in the engine that could be holding oil during my original oil drain, did I put in the 5 new quarts now totaling 8 quarts of oil in this engine???   If so, too much oil is also bad for an engine.  But please note, upon my installing the new 5 quarts of oil, I checked the dipstick that DID MEASURE FULL on its designated full line.

Any input on this issue will ease my mind.

@chip Yes it was.  This brought back my memories back in the mid 60's of an old Mercury 4 door and its starting and especially its steering fight.  I love it.  Thanks Chip

@junky On my vehicles that have a spark retard knob/lever, I always use it for start-up. That is why it is there. It is normal to use the spark knob when starting. I would not adjust the timing.

@35mike Thanks Mike.  I will take your advice whole heartedly.  For now I will leave the timing as is.  I'll just check it to see what it is set at for my records.  I had previously read somewhere, that the reason for the Spark Advance Knob was for "Hand Cranking the Engine Startup" due to the slower rotation of the engine to get it started.  And once the engine started, you were required to quickly get back to the cab to press the knob back into place.  Kind of made sense to me at the time.

So my previous failed attempts at starting her were the duel application of both the Spark Advance and the Throttle Button which did not help.  Did that function only a few times, realizing I was getting nowhere.  Then I thought just using the Throttle Button would help get her started.  That did not help either.  That's when I did a rough/short carburetor semi rebuild, only the float adjustment, and needle and seat change plus a cleaning of what was exposed at that process (did not have the proper tools to take the carb fully apart).  And I rebuilt the Fuel Pump, cleaned out the fuel filter and changed the screen.  Since I was not utilizing the "Hand Crank Method of Starting" I did not see any reason to use the Advance Spark Button.  That button made no sense for me to use in my previous attempts under my understanding at that time.  And then yesterday, for the first time, I said, oh give it a try, it won't hurt.  Low and behold instant startup.  A little rough but started.  I waited about 10 seconds and push the knob back in and she smoothed out.  That's when I immediately took her up and down the street.  Yeah, break issues and possible greasing of the steering needed noticeable in that short ride.

And yes, she starts up easily now with the application of the Spark Advance Button.  I went through a lot of head scratching during the past three/four weeks.  I'm now bald.  Or at least that's my new claim of being bald.  Thanks again Mike.

Whether hand cranking or starter cranking, it is always easier to get the engine started if the spark is retarded (so the spark happens close to or at top dead center - TDC), which helps prevent the explosion from happening too early (while the piston is still coming up in the compression cycle).

If the fuel/air explodes before the piston reaches TDC, the explosion will try to push the piston down in the wrong direction, thus fighting the starter which is turning the engine over in the correct direction.

Glad you got it running!

Dean

@rustoholic Thanks Dean!!  7 days later, AND with your suggestion of using the Spark Advance Knob (plus I used the choke knob) she started up on a dime, so to speak.  Thank you Dean! I was in the wrong direction in thinking on that spark advance knob.  AND, thanks to all above giving me great advice to get me to this point in my venture.

And today's running, sitting in the driveway idling for a very short time, I was watching the temp and oil pressure gauges (amp meter gauge good too).  The temp held fine but the oil pressure gauge started at 30psi and slowly dropped to 18 psi in about 5 minutes.  I shut her down.  (then my thoughts went nuts about my week earlier taking her up and down the road only once --- I did not review the oil gauge at that time before that short journey...arrrrggg)

Before all this,  previously in my earlier journey to get her started, when I went under the dash to remove the instrument dash panel for mapping out the existing wiring arrangement, I noticed the oil pressure gauge tubing had a severe kink.  So I cut away that short length (8") piece and spliced in a new matching tubing with a compression union.  I do not believe this splice is the problem with the loss of pressure and I have not noticed any leakage of oil at this compression fitting.  Therefore, I believe I may have to replace the oil pump assembly.  Yeah, before I do, I could go out and pick up a new standard oil pressure gauge and connect to the end of the oil pressure tubing to see if the reading is better than the original reading, which would then indicate the dash oil pressure gauge is malfunctioning.  This attempt would be the simple and less expensive to perform before attempting the pump replacement.  But with the low oil pressure I'm not going anywhere at this time.

Any advice is appreciated!!

@junky 

Hi Junky

You have probably told us in an earlier post but I don't remember...

Do you have the original engine or style of engine (the 194 six) in your truck?

If so, your oil pressure numbers are very very high.

I'm not really familiar with the readings you would see on engines with the later style gear oil pump installed, but I doubt even they would be that high.

Even the last of the "pressure stream" oiled 216's and 235's idle hot at about 8 lbs.

It's been a long time since my '29 has been out of the shed, but I think it idled with somewhere between 2 and 4 lbs with the original vane style oil pump.

Now, all that said, on the 194 engines just about the only thing determining the oil pressure is the strength on the spring in the oil distributor valve.

ALL of the oil goes through and past that valve on it's way to do it's job and it's ONLY purpose was to create pressure to show on the oil gauge.

All of the oil going to lubricate the engine was under zero pressure on the downstream side of that valve.

Some people used to stretch that spring or put in a stronger one to boost the pressure mistakenly thinking they were somehow improving lubrication.

They were, as I said, mistaken.

If anything, it actually reduced the amount of oil reaching the engine parts.

If you have a later style of engine in your truck, like a full pressure 235, disregard all of the above!  🙂

I agree with Stovblt. If you have the original vane -type oil pump,  the oil pressure gauge is ONLY used to let you know that the oil pump is working (even if it's somewhat working). The actual pressure number on the gauge almost doesn't matter. As long as it is NOT zero.

I replaced the vane-type pump in both of my trucks (1928 four-cylinder engines) with new gear-type oil pumps. In both engines, the oil pressure at startup goes up to around 15-18 psi and then drops down to 5 psi when the engine is warmed up.

Cheers, Dean

Thanks guys!  My engine, although not original with this truck, is the 1929 194 Stovebolt 6.  Here's the specs;

Block Casting 835501   E69   "Bowtie"  15  SN: 675547

yes, E69 = May 6th, 1929 casting.  I have no idea as to what the 15, located to the right of the chevy "Bowtie" casting.

In regards to my low oil pressure,  when I had takin that short ride up the street and back, I had heard a few "loud clunks" that I originally took as chassie stiffness after 16-17 months of sitting.  Today, once I realized the dropping of the oil pressure, my thoughts went to the inadequate supply of oil throughout the engine.  Therefore the "CLUNKS" became the concern.  Upon receiving this truck by way of an estate sale, the past maintenance on this truck was horrible.  Granted, most of what is in place is close to NEW, and I got it for a song, I have no worries about putting more dollars into this investment and fun.

Typical oil pressure today, ranges between 20 - 27 psi, mostly in my viewing between 20-22.  In general, from the 60's forward any time we seen the pressure drop below 20, we had a concern.  Today the pressure fluctuated between 15 - 18.  mostly down towards 15.

The "Clunking" sound, my concern, only became apparent when I took that short trip on the road.  Today when it sat in the driveway idling, there where no clunking sounds.  So, upon Ole and your (Dean) input, I'll table the oil pressure test and oil pump replacement until the next step to again, take her for the same trip up and down the street.  And this time I'll have some breaks.  Originally I had to use the emergency to stop, the breaks didn't work that well.  I just finished adjusting the front and back breaks.  The back break bands had about 1/4 - 5/16 open clearence to the drum surface.  The front adjustment bolt took so many turns until the shoes high points finally touched the drums (and yes I backed off about 3/4 turn).  I'll feel more comfortable with this next ride, hopefully tomorrow (its not registered yet)

Any input as to my update is greatly appreciated.

@junky I think your oil pressure is OK. I actually seems hight to me. My 1936 truck has about 10-12 lbs. when running at cruising speed warmed up.

Mike

Thank you, Mike, Dean and Ole.  Your input makes me feel better about my original thoughts of a bad oil pump.

So, I'm back to my adjustment of the front and rear brakes that still, after my recent adjustments, did not bring the stopping of the truck without my having to use the emergency break.  Even with the emergency break, this truck is not going to stop on a dime.  She rolls quite far.  Bare in mind, the existing breaks are not new and have been in use for some years.  So, I first adjusted the rear breaks by way of the center break adjustment pull rod clevis bringing the bands almost touching in the center location to the drum.  As  spin the rear tires, the bands do rub against the drum as though there was a high point.  BUT, the heel and toe (the end location of the bands) have a gap of say 3/16 to 1/4.  Which means, to me, the bands are out of round.  Therefore, any expectation from the rear breaks providing assistance in the stopping force is useless.

And, right after doing the rear breaks, I adjusted the front breaks by way of the "Adjusting Nut" actuating the shoes cam.  I brought each front wheel break adjustment to just touch the drum and then backed off about 1/2-3/4 turn of the Adjusting Nut.  In the understanding of the front break shoes not being new, there should have been no high point of the shoe to the drum.  In my adjustment process I should have expected all of the break shoe making contact with the drum consistently all the time as I rotated the wheel/drum. Since this did not occur, I would expect my front drums are out of round.  Yes, the front both sides do the same high point touching, only partially as I rotate the wheels/drums.

Since I have read your inputs on other members break adjustments for a 29 truck**, and not knowing the history behind the maintenance and mechanical work of my truck, I'm thinking my next steps would be;

Rear Breaks - Disassemble and round the existing break bands and prepare for possible band replacement if necessary.  If, I find I need to replace the bands, I would purchase bands with new linings.

Front Breaks - remove the drums, inspect drums and the present shoes and linings.  If needed, replace the drums and if the shoes body structure are of good quality, send the shoes out for re-lining.  Yes, since I'm taking the drums off, replacement of the drum internal parts would be in order.  Also repack the wheel bearings and if needed replace the bearings if I damage their removal.

Before I go forward,  again does anyone have any thoughts on my first front and rear break adjustment attempt??  Also, what should my expectation be of the breaks working properly??  When I apply the breaks, would there be a quick stopping expectation?  Even the possibility of skidding? Or is there some slowness to its stopping?

**Yes, I read an early post here on VCCA to which the member at the end had my similar break issue but there was no post follow up.

https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/313473/1929-brake-set-up-proper-setting.html

I suggest that you contact the author of that post in vccachat.org. If you are logged on to that site and are a VCCA member, you should be able to click on his username in the post, which will take you to his profile.

His email address is listed in his profile.

As for bending (rounding out) the external rear brake band, here's what I did before for Lurch: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/415134/brake-band-bending-technique.html

Dean

@rustoholic Thanks Dean!  After you completed Lurch's breaks, does Lurch's breaks bring you to an immediate stop as one would desire or is the stop a sluggish slow or quick sluggish stop?  Hard to explain, but if Lurch cannot stop on a dime, so to speak, how does Lurch's breaks stop when applied.  Looking at your photo's is no different than my rear break set up.

Gary

Lurch stopped 'better' after the brake band bending and adjustments, but he never stopped on a dime.

One of the main reasons is his chassis is an LM (meaning 1927), therefore he does not have brakes on the front wheels. And, the cattle cage is made from oak, so he's a heavy weight (3100 pounds).

I think the only way for him to stop on a dime is to have a boat anchor with chain attached that you toss overboard quickly!  😉

Dean

@rustoholic Since I'm missing a spare tire and the frame underneath for the spare is not being used, I'll check eBay for the availability of a boat anchor.  LOL