Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks
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Have a 1940 Chevrolet, original engine from the first or second week of production. Don't know much of the history of the car. Engine had a cracked head when I got it (2016) and the previous owner was driving it. Have a correct replacement head and of course new valves and all. All cylinders pump up to 120 lbs of pressure. Had a ton of rust in it. I flushed the system with wood bleach and neutralized it with baking soda. It really did the trick. (It runs hot) Now after the neutralizer it looks like there is oil in the water. I flushed all that out I have what looks like oil infused dirt caked inside the block. With the cylinders holding pressure I'm pretty sure I don't have an oil leak. I put in a new oil line from the pump to the rockers thinking it might have ruptured but it didn't. (It needed to be replaced anyway.) When doing that I saw all the dirt in the engine. Didn't see any of that when I had the head off but to tell the truth, I wasn't really looking for that. I saw videos online about putting dish washing detergent in the the coolant and flush it that way. Any ideas? I really don't want to pull the engine to have the block cleaned out. This is the last issue with this car and then it can be on the road. Thanks for any help
What you're seeing as oil in the water might be residue from the flush. Are you getting white foam in the oil? You say it's running hot. Is that by indicated coolant temperature? Coolant boiling out of the radiator?
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1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
No white foam in the water. Has been overheating since i put the head on. Slowly gets hotter and hotter. About 15 minutes its close to the red on the mechanical gauge. Turn on the fan (I added a fan) and it drops a bit but then resumes it march onward. Not boiling out of the radiator. I stop it when it hits the red. I think you are correct about the residue. Any ideas on how to get it out?
I acquired a 1940 special deluxe about 10 years ago, it sat for 35 years in a garage. after redoing heads etc,it ran great but over heated by just going around the block. I removed a freeze out plug on side of engine,all I found was rust caked in the water jacket. I removed head, and removed all freeze out plugs and started the long process of cleaning out water jacket using some long steel rods, screwdrivers and many flushing s removed a ton of rust. It was slow and tediuus but i did not want to pull motor to boil out. after 10-12 hours put it backtogther,it has run great for over 10 years, always a little warm but does not over heat.
hope this helps.
No white foam in the water.
Foam in the oil would indicate a possible cracked head or block or a leaking head gasket. If it didn't get hot before replacing the head check to make sure you didn't block any coolant passages (wrong gasket/installed wrong?).
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
My choice for a flush product. https://irontite.com/p/8189-thoro-flush-pint/v/8189 I also agree that removing the "freeze plugs" and scraping will be very helpful and best if done before flushing.
7472 old site post
I'll try the Irontite. I didn't drive it when I got it. It had so many things wrong with it it wasn't safe to drive. I'm fairly sure I put the gasket on correctly. I does run great. Radiator is recored and I have the one that came with it (wrong year radiator) and the temperature rise is exactly the same. Water flow is good. New Water pump. I'm trying not to take the head back off if I can help it. Thanks for everyone's input!
@dan-salmasian Incorrect timing can also contribute to overheating.
7472 old site post
Thanks. I have triple checked the timing. Going to start all over with it. After the next cleaning session.
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