George, Your engine will not run cool without the baffle plate. You say the block is rusted away. Can you be more specific? What about the overall condition of the engine? Were you considering a total rebuild or trying to save it "as is"?

Mike

Mike, the place where the baffle would fit is rusted away so there is no way to mount a new baffle.  I was hoping to use it as is. The rods and mains looked great

There are ways to repair the block enough to insert a baffle. Brazing, welding, using a high quality epoxy resin are some of them. Fabricating a new larger baffle is also possible. The baffle is necessary to complete the pump cavity so it is effective in moving the coolant. Paying an "expert" can be an economic way to have a well functioning engine.

Chip, can you tell me the depth of the baffle from the face of the block. the diameter of the baffle and does water need to flow behind the baffle.

I can't tell you the depth as I don't have one of those engines. However, you can determine it. Measure the depth of the impeller from the machined surface on the water pump body with the pulley snug on the shaft. That plus ~0.010" is the depth of the baffle. That plus the gasket thickness will result in enough space so the impeller does not rub on the baffle. The result is a cavity with little leakage around the impeller and therefore good coolant flow. The diameter is what is necessary to be snug in the block so the baffle does not move. You will probably need to secure the baffle in the block with some type of retainer system (pins, epoxy, soldering, ???

I would like to rent or borrow a baffle driver if anybody has one 

What is a baffle driver??

@george-mitchell George, The baffle is 3-1/8 inches across. It is 15/16th from the water pump mounting surface to the face of the baffle. I have a block that is open. I can send a picture if you like.

When I rebuilt my 1935 engine, I made a baffle by turning the top of an aluminum piston to the right size then cutting it free and driving it into place. That was 40 years ago and it is still there. You can use a block of wood to install it. No need for a special tool. I believe The Filling Station had the baffle available, at one time. I agree with Chip that there are epoxy products available that would make an effective and permanent repair possible. Brazing might be a viable option also. Call me if you like at 573 864 6539

Mike

35Mike, I cleaned up the pump cavity and was not seeing what i thought. I will be able to press in a new baffle. i have baffle coming from filling station. For my info did the 35 come from factory  with cast iron pistons or did it come with aluminum which mine has ?

Originally the 1935 came with Cast Iron pistons. Modern aluminum pistons are often used. After rebuilding a number of six cylinder I am convinced that cast iron piston engines run smoother that with the aluminum replacements.

@george-mitchell George, That is great news regarding your baffle area. Glad you got it figured out. Chip is correct with regard to the cast iron pistons being original to your engine. I have no experience with aluminum pistons in one of these engines but Chip occasionally knows what he is talking about. This might be one of those times.

I have owned my 1935 Standard Coupe for 51 years and bought a 2 door sedan earlier this year. let me know if I can help.

Mike

Mike, Thank you and Chip for all the help. The baffle fit like it was supposed to. My next thing is to check the main bearings any tips would be appreciated especially the front main as it is also bolted to the front engine plate.

@george-mitchell George, I'm not too keen on the specifics of evaluating your main bearings. Are you working on your engine with it still in the car?

Mike