George, Your engine will not run cool without the baffle plate. You say the block is rusted away. Can you be more specific? What about the overall condition of the engine? Were you considering a total rebuild or trying to save it "as is"?

Mike

Mike, the place where the baffle would fit is rusted away so there is no way to mount a new baffle.  I was hoping to use it as is. The rods and mains looked great

There are ways to repair the block enough to insert a baffle. Brazing, welding, using a high quality epoxy resin are some of them. Fabricating a new larger baffle is also possible. The baffle is necessary to complete the pump cavity so it is effective in moving the coolant. Paying an "expert" can be an economic way to have a well functioning engine.

Chip, can you tell me the depth of the baffle from the face of the block. the diameter of the baffle and does water need to flow behind the baffle.

I can't tell you the depth as I don't have one of those engines. However, you can determine it. Measure the depth of the impeller from the machined surface on the water pump body with the pulley snug on the shaft. That plus ~0.010" is the depth of the baffle. That plus the gasket thickness will result in enough space so the impeller does not rub on the baffle. The result is a cavity with little leakage around the impeller and therefore good coolant flow. The diameter is what is necessary to be snug in the block so the baffle does not move. You will probably need to secure the baffle in the block with some type of retainer system (pins, epoxy, soldering, ???

I would like to rent or borrow a baffle driver if anybody has one