I have a 1933 Chevy with cooling system problems. It has the original v-cell radiator. What do I have to do to determine if this is the problem?
@gene-kruger Gene, I split your question off into it's own thread. As for your question, is it boiling over? Is the gauge showing hot? Did the problem just start? If so, did it start after work was done on it? More details about the issue will help us help you.
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1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan
I went on a week long early six rally where the temperatures were in the high 80's. We drove over grades of up to 8,000 feet. my temperature gage was often near the boiling point and numerous times I either boiled over and or lost a lot of water out the overflow tube. This has been a problem for me on previous rallys. I have a 1936 207 engine in the 1933 which has been rebuilt. I make sure the packing nut is snug on the water pump. No other cars had boiling problems that I know of. There were 5 1933 Chevys on the rally.
If coolant out the overflow is the issue, are you sure you're not putting too much in it? There's no recovery tank so if it's over full it'll exit out the overflow when warm. A temp over 200 seems unusually warm to me. My 38 would get up to 185-190 on occasion but it never saw 200. If I filled more than an inch over the top of the core it would overflow on occasion. Hopefully someone will be along with more suggestions.
7046 old site posts
Save a life, adopt a senior shelter pet
There are many good people. If you can't find one, be one.
1938 Master Business Coupe
1953 210 Sedan