A word of caution about trying to make the rear main seal leak free.  While I have never attempted it, everything I have read, both on the old site and others, indicates mixed results when trying to replace the upper and lower rear main seal without removing the crankshaft.  Do a search,  I believe Gene recommended using a technique described in an Oldsmobile shop manual where the existing upper seal is left in place, but driven further in the groove then filled by adding pieces in the voids. Even then, I would expect some leakage.  Also reducing bearing clearance is a factor to help minimize leakage. The seals in my 41 and 48 were replaced with the crankshaft out and I’m still cautious where I park them.  

The more we look the more oil we find.  I think the car is in to the point where a slow leak is a vast improvement over what it has.  I have cardboard for the garage floor so small leaks do not bother me.  I have older cars for my daily so a little drop hear and there hurts nothing.  

This weekend we finally got back to the car.  Other events had to take priority.  We pulled the transmission.  Few questions on the transmission.

It weeps from the side plate and the area where the shift levers are.  Not a lot but since it is out is there any reason not to change the seals on these? 

The larger lever on the side we can move between three positions without issue.  The smaller lever appears to be stuck.  We noticed that when the larger lever moves it must be the forward three gears since the input and output shafts turn in the same direction.  How do we move the other lever?  

I know it looks like we are going down the rabbit hole of while we are here.  My sons want to tackle the mechanical task and would rather wait to drive it until next year if that is the case so I am on board with their plan.  

I am not familiar with that trans but suspect 1 lever selects the gears while the other lever only selects between 1 & reverse or 2nd and 3rd. I suspect there is no actual seals on the shift shafts just a close clearance which makes it difficult to suggest a remedy.

Tony 

a little info    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-tgWVIILdQ&list=PLd1-laPZkIhjE-MDXyo8k8wfu7PLggE41

Part 2  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5qW43H51Ks&list=PLd1-laPZkIhjE-MDXyo8k8wfu7PLggE41&index=2

Had a short bit of time to look at the transmission today.  Took the side cover off to check the gasket that I thought failed.  Found that it did not fail it was missing.  Someone had placed some goo along the outside edge after putting it together.  Guess that was the cause for it slowly weeping.  Surprisingly we had to only top it off every few months.  I have gasket paper to make a new one to fix that.  

The shift levers are real stiff.  Is that normal?  I cannot even move the small one (2nd and 3rd).  When they were connected to the linkage the moved freely.  Is this to keep the gears in place while driving?  Do you need the leverage of the linkage to move them by design?  I want to make sure it is right before it goes back in.

Gear look to be in great shape. 

Ran threw how the gears worked with my sons.  They liked actually seeing how it shifted.  I was surprised how simple it was.  I had multi gear RC cars with more complex transmissions than this.

There maybe a spring loaded detent arrangement to hold the shift in position (3 positions) the makes it stiff to move with the levers on the side of the box.

Tony

My youngest took the pressure plate and the clutch off himself.  He also took the bolts out of the flywheel.  Now the issue is that the flywheel is tight on the crank.  What is the best way to remove it?  Can we use a rubber mallet and tap it on the back to break it loose without damaging the crank?  Do these just normally fit this tight?

We looked at the clutch that came out and it was made by Borge and Marc.  The one from NAPA is made by LUK.  The pressure plates do not look identical but all of the mounting holes line up.  Also the outer points are the same.  The clutch itself is the same diameter.  The only difference is the amount of the clutch that the splines of the tranny enters is shorter on the LUK clutch.  Everything does appear that it will fit.  I suspect it is just due to a different manufacturer.  

The old clutch does not appear to be oil soaked.  This said the rear main seal did leak.  Since it is all apart and the clutch kit was not that much now seems to be the time to change it.  

Skip to 30:47

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWsY3Y6SuFo

At one point you ask if their is a seal for the shift shaft that the linkage connect to. Yes it has one. On the very outside. It is shown in this new video. Easy to replace.

Pilot bearing out.  Oil pan bolts out but it is stuck to the engine.  Had to quit for the night so we put the four corner bolts in and left it.  I suspect this is going to be a case of prying it off.  Looks like the old seal and 'glued' it on.