Here is how I mounted an early 4 cylinder engine to a stand.

A basic 4 wheel engine stand is fine for the engine assembly (without flywheel)

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Thanks. I was thinking aobut that but did not know if there would be problem with the bellhousing holding the weight

When I rebuilt Lurch's engine in 2017, I also used an engine stand as Headlighter did, but I wanted larger steel wheels under it.  

I replaced two of the engine stand casters with a couple from one of my car wheel dollies, and then bolted the rest of the car wheel dolly to the front of the engine stand to add some stability. See the pic below.

When most of the engine was on the stand, the stand seemed to groan a little, so I put a 2x4 between the front of the stand (the car dolly body) to under the front of the engine to reduce the strain on the rear of the stand.

Here's a link to the rebuild story: Resurrecting a 1928 Chevy 4 Banger

Cheers, Dean 

Thanks for your resurrecting the 28 engine. Can you tell me what clearances should be for the rod bearings

If you have the shop manual the process for tightening the rod caps is spelled out. I don't believe it's a set, specified numerical clearance. Someone will be along soon that knows far more than me.

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1925/25crm035.html

The clearance for rods is ~0.001". As Tiny wrote the method in the Repair Manual is the best. A word of caution: Plasigage is only an indicator in soft babbitt bearings. 

@rustoholic Dean- Thank you for posting the link to rebuild story- really helpful and informative!

I just joined the site, and am rebuilding a 28' engine right now that is in a 27 Landau. Just sent the block & heads off to

the hot tank.. so may need some reassembly wisdom with babbits, shims & clearances upon reassembly..

Thank you-Chase