Does anyone have the instructions on adjusting the steering gear on a '30? The earliest I have is on the '32 and ofcourse that is a different box.

I have a 31 manual which has the procedure for it.
But I don't know if it is the same procedure for your 30. If yes, I could copy or send it to you if that would help.

Shocks

1931 is different. The only adjustment for the 1930 steering box is for the main shaft and for the pitman shaft. Here is what the 1930 shop manual (you really need to get one of these) says:

"End play in the main shaft may be compensated for by loosening the adjusting plug clamp screw and turning the adjustment plug to the right until the excess clearance is removed. After turning the adjustment nut up, be sure it is not too tight, thus causing the gear and worm to bind. Tighten the clamp screw and test again to be sure the gear will move freely all the way."

For the end play in the Pitman arm shaft the manual says the following:

"Remove the four cap screws that secure the housing cover to the steering gear cases and take out one or more of the paper gaskets or shims so as to allow the cover to go up close to the gear and shaft, thus eliminating any excess clearance at this point. Be sure that the housing cover does not fit too close, thus causing the gear to drag after the cap screws are again put in place."

There is no adjustment for the "backlash" between the worm and gear in 1930. Since the gear has 360 degrees of teeth, turn the gear 180 degrees or to an area on the gear where it hasn't meshed with the worm previously. That will tighten up the backlash a little.

Thanks for the rapid response. I believe you got it right Junkyard Dog. The only adjustments you have are the worm shaft end play and the sector shaft end play and no seperate adjustment for backlash. By the way, where can I get one of those 1930 shop manuals?

Manual reprints are available from Filling Station or other repro part suppliers.

Thanks Chevychip, I'll try and get one.

Question: How much "play" is exceptable? My 32 seems to "wander" just a little too much for my liking. I've adjusted the box a few times and can't seem to get tight feel to the steering. I'd say right now the wheel has about 1 1/2" to 2" of play.

On the 1932 steering box the backlash is adjustable, whereas in 1930 it is not. However, it sounds like your tie rod ends or your drag link might need to be rebuilt as well. You might want to look into that if you haven't already done so.

Hi Everyone, Is there a 1931 chevy club????
I just aquired a 31 chev coupe with twin side mounts and I sure would like to visit with other 31 chev owners.
Thanks
Dave

You can join the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America. There are many, many 1931 Chevrolet owners in the VCCA that you can contact once you become a member. Click on the following link for an application to the VCCA:
http://vcca.org/forms/application_form.htm

JunkYardDog, thanks for the quick reply.
I have jacked up the front end so the tires are just off the floor. I can move the steering wheel 1 1/2"-2" before I see any movement in the drag link.
I have replaced the little springs and half moon spacers in the tie rod ends and repacked them with grease.
What does it take to rebuild the drag link? (is there a kit?)
Or...could the problem be in the steering box?

RGwiz - you know, I can literally match the same kind of wheel play and work-to-date you've done with my '32, too. Along with the installation of a tie rod "rebuild kit", I have also found some incremental improvement in increasing the tire pressure and double-checking the toe-in; however, I'm never quite relaxed driving around with the same kind of steering wheel play you and I both have. I'll be following your thread with anticipation.

As I remember, the same kit for the tie rod ends fits the drag link as well. The Filling Station has the parts.

JunkYardDog, You need to keep both hands on the wheel and your eyes straight ahead, Elvira will do fine till you get to the barn. A little slack keeps your steering apparatus from freezing up!

Hum.....maybe so, but the same repair kit still fits both the tie rod ends and the drag link.

Hi Ed.
If I remember correctly my Dad repacked the drag link before I did the tie rod ends. I also checked and adjusted the toe. I'm not sure about what you say regarding the tire pressure. Seems to me that a higher pressure would cause the front end to wander more easily.
I'm thinking that the steering box is just worn. JunkYardDog said something about flipping the gear to eliminate backlash on the 1930 car. Junkyard...is the '32 gear 360 degrees. I believe my car is a very early 32. (November 31)

No! The 1930 steering box is a worm and gear, and the 1931-1932 steering box is a worm and sector. The 1930 steering box is totally different than the 1931-32 steering box.

Davos, Try http://barkerville.net/1931 . A lot of information there.

I'm going to fix the link Jerry. It included the "period" and you get an error when you click on it. I'll remove the "period" in the previous posting.

I recall someone in this group a long time back - perhaps Chevnut -expressing that boosting the tire pressure a pound or two above what the manual calls for can help reduce that "sloggy" steering you get that feels like worn steering. I did it two years ago - I think I raised the pressure to 34 or 35 pounds - and I did find some incremental improvement.

IT wasn't little ol me :rolleyes:

Well Ed, I'll give that a try. It may be possible to get a better "feel" for the road if there is more pressure. But I'd sure like to stop all that "drifting around".

I found it makes a lot of difference in the little narrow 400,450x21 inch tires on the 1928 Sedan, I run about 40psi. also keeping all four tires at the same pressure is better since even 3 or 4 psi difference in the fronts can be felt in the way she drives on un-even blacktop pavement. My steering is all good and tight, I changed the toe in from 1 3/8" toe out to 1/8" toe in and that also helped, I was wearing the left front tire tread and it also shows an improvement now with the correct toe in and the 40psi.

Several of us have recommended the 4-5 psi higher pressure. It lowers the tendency to wander.

Oh okay, I'll give Chipper the credit, then. I lose track of all the great advice over the years...

Thanks Bill. Just looked at how many hits it's had and it read 38,910. WOW!!

Where do you find the number of hits a topic had????

I just hit his web site, scrolled down to the bottom of the page and read the hits. It's up to 38,921 be cause I hit it myself a couple of times today. I'm talking of his '31 chev web site.

Cool! Because it sounded like you were talking about hits on Chevy Chatter.

I took all of the play out of my steering by adjusting the steering gear box on my 31, also adjusting the tie-rod ends, set the toe-in at 1/4", bubble balanced all four tires, inflated them at 35psi, just recently installed tapered front (inner and outer) wheel bearings that I recently purchased from Olcar Bearing Co. I am now experiencing a more stable 31 Chevrolet. I`ve also just installed Larry Jackson`s 350 ring and pinion gears with speedo adapter, re-torqued the rear trunion bearing to 20 ft lbs, re-shimed the U-joint ball housing which totally improves the ride. Those 350 gears are great! We can go out on the big roads now. My wife and I are now ready to see the USA in our CHEVROLET!!

Great news, congrats...

Did you install the 3.50 yourself? Any problems?

Gator! Yes I installed it myself, with a little help from my dictionary of four letter words. The only real problem I had was the darn rivets. Larry has a set of dies he loans to anyone who buys his gears but he`d loaned them out and they have never been returned. So I decided to bolt them on with grade 5 3/8X 1 1/4" fine thread but the holes in the ring gear were sized to the thickness of the rivet which was 11/32", and after burning out several drill bits I took it to a machine shop and had them milled out to accomodate the 3/8" bolt which I thread locked with permanent Red. Other than that everything went good, The backlash on these gears are .009 and the book says .003-.005 which was confusing until I spotted the correct setting etched on the new ring gear!! Shimming the pinion and adjusting the backlash was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. My wife and I are ready to go on our clubs(VCCA) Fall Tour Oct 9th. I know the other people on the tour will be glad I`ve got those gears now since I`ll be able to keep up with those modern chevrolets, (1947-50).

Are you sure the bolts will be OK? Can you drill thru the ends or the bolts and insert a cotter key? or spot weld them on?

Could it be taken some place to put rivets in, or not?

Grade 8 bolts with red thread locker is much more secure than rivets! It takes next to a nuclear detonation to break the nuts loose. But if you heat them then they can easily be removed. No the temperature is much more than the rear end will generate unless you catch the oil on fire.

I'm with Chipper......if bolts are going to be used, Grade 8 with the red thread locker is the only way to go. Grade 5 bolts are not strong enough.

Good to know. I plan on getting the 3.50 gears also.

Stop and think about it! Grade 5 with red thread lock are stronger than the mild steel 11/32" rivets and that is what I happened to have available the day I put it together. I have since put over 100 miles on this installation with no problems. So, My opinion is that grade 5 "is strong enough" much stronger than those original rivets. If you know anybody that wants the rivets I have them. To correctly install the rivets you will need a set of dies that Larry Jackson had made and loans out and pressed with a 10-20 ton press. I did not have those dies since he loaned them out and they have not been returned, and I was not going to pay a machine shop to make them. Gator, " if your going get a set of those 350 gears you might want to call Larry to see if he has any available since he usually does not keep them in stock. His phone number is 805 441 2627.

Yes, a grade 5 bolt is stronger than a mild steel rivet. However, when two pieces are riveted together the overall unit is extremely strong. Grade 8 bolts are usually recommended if the ring gear is not going to be riveted to the carrier.

Thanks for the info and the heads up.

Gator! I talked to Larry Jackson and he said that he only had one set of 3.50 gears left. Just thought I`d tell you. If you decide to get them you will definetely not be sorry.

Someone will probably pick those up in a heart beat too. The Larry Jackson gears are the only way to go!

Gator! My wife and I just got back late last nite from a 400 mile club tour with a bunch of old chevies,we had 2 absolutely beautiful days traveling into 3 different states to 2 different Octoberfests, and our 31 did great with those new 3:50 gears. Don`t get me wrong, you can still enjoy your chevy without changing those gears but it just makes it more user-friendly in to-days traffic and we can keep up with those snobs in their late model 40`s. The same rpms it took us to go 45 now moves her along 55-60 with no problems.

Really cool, Hoppy, I was convinced earlier to go to the 3.50 but was worried that it might be more than I could do. I have never worked on a rear end of a '32.

I assume (yes I know what that means LOL) that there are detailed instructions on installing the new gears.

Did you change the gearing on your speedometer?

Someone said on Chatter (JunkYardDog?)that there was a study done on the 4.11 & the 3.50 comparing them, maybe it was in the G&D several years ago? Would it be possible for me to get a copy of that study or article from one of you guys?

I called Larry on the 7th and he called me back last night and I am now the proud owner of 3.50 gears, just waiting on the total to send him, he will call again tonight.

Larry would like for the rivet tool to be returned to him so he can loan it to others, so if any of you are that person who has forgotten to return it; all is forgiven please just ship it back, no problem...

Real nice guy, don't know if he will be making any more of the gears...

When I get to installing the gears, you guys will be getting some questions from me, I'm sure...

Gator! Did you get the last set of 3:50`s from Larry? I bought a reduction gear box for the speeedometer from Larry,I think it was $65. I will be glad to help answer any questions I can since it was the first time for me too. Larry Jackson is a very patient man and spent alot of his time on the phone with me. My home phone number is 636-441-3096 (St. Peters, Mo).I also replaced the carrier, pinion and axel bearings that I got from Olcar Bearing Co.(910-693-3324). They are located in North Carolina. This is not absolutely necessary but I just wanted to spend some of the kids inheritance and not have to worry about them, plus his axel bearings are sealed. If Larry`s rivet dies don`t come back you could do what I did and bolt the ring gear on, but I had to have the ten holes enlarged 1/32" to make the 3/8" bolts fit since the gear is 11/32" The job is really not that difficult if you go real slow, which is at my age the only speed I have left!! That study on gear ratios was probably written by Larry. He told me he had written several technical articles in the G&D several years ago and has been with the VCCA a long time. A Super nice fellow(he has a 30 Chevrolet) and also knows alot about brakes and told me he drives his 30, 65-70 mph and tells me his brakes work almost like modern ones, they better a those speeds. Good luck Gator and give me a call or e-mail me if ya wanna talk!!

I just thought, I probably violated the Chatter rules with this discussion on rear end gears, under the topic of steering gear adjustments!! Oh well!!

Not the first time we have 'veered' a little. This raises a question for the "topic keepers"; can you guys move 5 or 6 of these postings into and under a new topic heading (which you would need to do also)? And then post a note here telling us a 'new' topic was started?

"Slow" is kicking it into passing gear for me right now...

I thank you for your offer of help when I get to the gear swap, I will need it.

Even if you have grade 5 bolts in your shop, I believe the ring gear should be bolted with grade 8 bolts since the shearing forces here are more than a usual bolt application requires. I found that most grade 5 bolts have a regular or a course thread (National?) and most of the grade 8 bolts I find have a fine or (S.A.E.?) thread. Is that the usual situation?

Gator! I talked to Larry Jackson last night and he said that yes, he had written an article in the G&D sometime in 1990 or 1991 (he can`t remember) with pictures and technical info regarding swapping the 3:50 ring & pinion gears. If any VCCA member has copies of this, could you post the date and month? He also said that he is taking names of people who would want a set of 3:36 ring and pinion gears for the 1937 Truck. He has 12 names, and needs approximately 25 to make it cost effective to set-up and run those gears.

Anyone have the article from the G&D?

Try February 1992 G&D pages 13-16.

Thanks Chipper, now we know where the story is so my next question (bet you didn't see this one coming from about a mile away LOL):

Is there anyway you could copy that story and either mail me a copy or send it to my email address?

I will be glad to pay for the xeroxing and mailing + time and trouble, name your price.

Those primroses sure smell sweet. I sure wish you had not placed the boulder just around the corner on the peagravel path. I'll dust myself off, get the '92 folder off the shelf and get the stuff off the scanner. It will take a couple of emails but will be coming your way. Guess that is my penance for replying. Might just wait for the doggie to answer next time.

Yep, ya just had to be first Chipper Dipper, and see what it cost ya? ha ha! :rolleyes: :p

Kinda remember that the old mutt does not have a scanner. If so then he would need to send by snail mail.

Hum......unfortunately, the old mutt's dog house is so far out in a remote area that there is no mail service!

Now I don't believe that there is anywhere that is too far out for Mr. Zip. However there are several addresses that have been put on the do not deliver list. The major reason is bad dogs that bite the gentle postperson. Have you been munching on the guy in the red, white and blue truck?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

Thanks for sharing Chipper, you are a gentleman and a scholar.

Gator,
I sent you a Word copy of the article by email. It should take about two days to actually send it with my glacial speed dial up.

Dawgs have been eating "the messenger" ever since the days of Julious What's-his-name from Rome. They even named a salad after one such meal. JunkYardDog cuts the trucks up and saves the good parts which he sells in the G&D

Hey Chipper! Is it possible for you to post the article here for the other dudes that would like to read it?

Chipper I got the email, thanks a ton. Will return the favor one day I hope.

It has too many photos. So it would need to be linked and I currently do not have a website to keep them. If someone else has a site for it let me know and I will send it a couple of pages at a time. The whole file is 8meg.