Hi Students,

Welcome to the first entry to a new string on the rebuild of the 1928 engine. Our old string was getting too long and approaching the dreaded 13 pages.

Keep your notes and books ready as we will discuss spark plugs in the next class.

Ok Ray.....I enjoy tagging along. Don

Welcome to the new School thread. Still business as usual, so get to your seats and let’s get started.

Although we have not stuffed the engine back in the engine compartment we need to think about putting some spark plugs in it.

The general characteristics of the 4-cylinder spark plugs include a thread size of 7/8 inches and a 1 1/8th Hex drive. Projection is ¾ inch.

New spark plugs were probably sold as a set in an AC Spark Plug box.



The July 28 CSN tells us that prior to the Model AB (1928) that all prior models used the AC “B” spark plug.



Here is a box of 4 of the type “B” spark plug. Notice that the box end specifies Chevrolet.



This is a box of NOS AC 78S plugs for the 1928 Chevrolet. The 78 S plug is still manufactured, however it is not the same as the original 78 S in that the projection is only ½ inch.

Both the AC “B” and 78 S plugs in NOS condition are becoming very difficult to obtain and also expensive when located. In an attempt to seek a solution and an acceptable substitute I have obtained an Adaptor.



This adaptor allows the use of a modern spark plug in the 4-cylinder engine. The major disadvantage of this arrangement is that no non-resister plugs are available with a ¾ reach. This means that a resister plug must be used, however if the ignition system is in a good state of repair the results are completely satisfactory. I recommend that the AC R44LTSM6 plug be used in this adaptor. R=Resistor, 4=14MM thread size, 4=heat range, L=long reach, TS=Tapered seat with extended tip, M=special design electrode, and 6=point gap. When the plug is installed the plug gap is set to .025. Using the codes as listed you can select the makeup of the plug of your choice.

Hi Teacher,
Someone once told me they obtained a worn-out set of spark plugs of the two-piece variety and used the lower halves as adaptors for modern plugs. However, I was not aware that the adaptors were "obtainable" for this purpose. Very interesting.

Raymundo, are these adapters only available with the internal machineing for the gasketless tapered plugs? Next question from whom are they available? I haven't seen a lot of publicity in print for them. Did you think we were never going to ask?.......

The adaptors are available from me and are only for the tapered seat. If you can find a plug that is non resistor, and has sufficient reach, I could provide a flat seat adaptor. Didn't make them as I did not see a need.

I have used the resistor plugs in both the six and the four cylinders and haven't had any problems with their performance at all, some may shy away from them but I don't have any problems with them as long as the coil and the plug wires are in good shape and the rest of the ignition circuit is in good condition.

The engine in now assembled to the point that it really needs to be installed in the car prior to further work. As with any project, the best of plans are laid aside and modified as you go along. This project was no exception. With the engine removed from the car it provided an excellent opportunity to clean and paint the engine compartment. And if you are gonna go that far you are not going to miss the chance to rebuild the steering sector as it is now so accessible. The firewall was painted black with a paintbrush sometime in the past so since it is devoid of any attachments it must be repainted the proper color. And did I mention that if you are going to make all these improvements you may as well install a new wiring harness?



So here are the results of those sideline projects.

Of course while the transmission was out of the car it must be addressed also. Although, I had just refreshed the transmission when I first purchased the car I decided to build yet another transmission to reinstall. And………that means full inspection of the clutch plate and the throw-out bearing. The bearing had been replaced when I did the prior transmission work so it was cleaned and reinstalled. I decided to try another clutch plate for this assembly. After all this work it was time to reassemble the engine and transmission/clutch assembly.



This is the configuration I chose to reinstall the engine/transmission assembly. I also elected to try another U-joint and speedometer drive assembly.



One final look at the engine compartment. Firewall has been painted, engine compartment painted, steering sector rebuilt, horn rebuilt and painted, and that portion of the wiring harness in the engine compartment installed. Note the armored wire across the front of the compartment for the headlights.



Two VCCA members appeared at the shop at the wrong time. (Actually I knew they were coming so I lay in wait). With two more sets of eyes watching the operation it was very painless to drop the engine back into the frame. However, even with the additional help it is just about impossible to carry out this operation without scraping at least a small portion of the fresh paint. A tiny paintbrush took care of that.

With the engine combination setting back in the compartment the next operation is to install the dash instruments (which also received a complete restoration and plating as necessary). When we return to the engine it will be time to prime the oil system and install the distributor.

Well, Raymundo, sounds like you will have a "almost new " 75 year old car!

Ray, I'm reminded of a '29 F*rd roadster I had several years ago. I removed the steering column to install a new bushing and decided to repaint the column, as long as it was out of the car. Then the steering column looked better than the rest of the car. The simple $15.00 repair wound up costing about $14k and took 2-years!! I now try to keep from fixin' what ain't broke!!
-Bob

the 28 is looking good!I dont want to get off the subject of your repair Antique,but i happened to notice your 4 hood latches.My 28 AB has 3 simular latches but they dont fall back as far.Actually i have to hold them out of the way or the hood scrapes on them.NOW for the 4th latch that was on my car it always fell against the fender and it was rather difficult to not chip it,also it didnt have the lower wedged bracket that is suppose to match the wedge on the hood .I took the darn thing off until i find an actual replacement.I think it must have been a FORD product??? Any comments on the latches ?

Hi 28chevrolet,

Relax, there are 4 (count them) different hood catches for the '28 Chevrolet. All of which are correct. It is desirable of course for them to all match. The proper catch is determined by the hood catch bracket. If necessary I could expand on this and describe each one, but it is probably not necessary.

The engine has been set in place in the engine compartment. The engine is secured there in three places. The front of the engine has a single stud that goes through the front cross member.



The rear sits on the second cross member and is secured on each side by a through bolt.




It is important to note that the two bolts are inserted through the bottom with the threads at the top. The second thing to observe is that all three items, the stud and two bolts, use a castle nut and cotter key. This is extremely important. A loose engine can cause serious problems and does major wear to the mounting bosses on the engine and the cross members. The two bolts are installed from the bottom in order to make the nuts visible each time the hood is raised to service the engine.

The oil filter and coil bracket has now been installed on the right front of the engine.



Students, you have had it too easy recently, because of the lack of homework.

HOMEWORK:

Who can remember what precautions must be observed in the installation of the oil filter/coil bracket?

For one thing, the bracket needs good electrical conductivity to the engine block which hopefully has good conductivity to the frame. (been there!)

-R

I agree with Mr Rustyfender, also make sure the bracket is not reversed or upside down ! the coil need's to screw to the top of bracket.

anti-seize needed?

Hey teach, Hey teach,
What about the AC Z plugs? Weren't they originally used in the '28s?

RustyFender

Your presumption is correct if we are using the original Remy 284W coil. In this era (20’s) the method of winding a coil did not tie the primary and secondary windings together at the ground end. Each winding, primary and secondary, were wound individually on an iron core. The internal condenser, connected to one end of the primary winding, was grounded to the center rod which ran through the iron core. To complete the condenser circuit the coil base had to be grounded, and this was accomplished through the coil/oil filter mount to the engine block and then back to the negative side of the battery, to complete the circuit.

If you are running a modern coil, grounding is not necessary, unless you have mounted the external condenser to the coil mount. (Just for fun, remove your condenser from the mount on your modern coil, remove the coil from it’s mount and lay it on some insulated material {rubber, cloth, ect}, with a jumper, connect the base of the CONDENSER to a good ground). Your engine will run exactly as it did previously.

n j horst

Although difficult, I’m sure some enterprising mechanic could make things operate if the oil filter/coil mount was upside down.

Gator

There are many places where anti-seize is used correctly, however this is not one of them.

I am puzzled why every student missed this simple question. It has been several weeks ago that this point was emphatically presented, however it was covered in more than one class.

As these two mounting bolts are placed in through holes in the block, the bolts are to be dipped in the “yellow snot” in order to seal them. Just another place for your engine to leak oil and very difficult to identify or find. To refresh your memory go back in the lesson plans and read this information again. ( Through holes in the block. )

ChevyChip

Let’s hear from one of the students about the AC Z spark plugs.

With the engine installed and bolted down, one of the steps remaining is to connect the U-joint. This has always been a difficult task. Although there is a special tool available that holds the forward ½ of the U-joint in place as you attempt to mate the two pieces and start the nuts on the bolts, or install the bolts depending upon the model, a make shift tool is just as efficient.



This simple tool is nothing more than a length of bailing wire. (Ask someone from the Midwest or South what bailing wire is. I have spent many hours sitting on the special seat attached to the side of a horse/donkey powered stationary hay bailer and poked the bailing wire through the blocks for hours at a time). If you look near the hole in the upper left you can see the end of the wire. Make a “U” shape out of a length of wire and feed it down and behind the front ½ of the joint. Pull up tight and bend each end over to hold as you connect the ½’s together.




This is from below the car and you can see the other end of the bailing wire. It is near the speedometer cable connection on the right side of the picture.



In almost every case the torque tube will not line up perfectly with the rear of the transmission. A jack placed under the tube can assist in the vertical movement. For the lateral movement, a small ratchet strap will handle that chore handily. After the U-joint has been joined and tightened, don’t forget to remove the bailing wire.

If the torque tube does not line up close to the transmission when free, the reason should be investigated. This may indicate that some component in the rear drive line is bent or damaged. In any case it is considered good procedure to loosen all the nuts on the U-bolts that attach the springs to the rear axle housing. Make the U-joint connection and then don’t forget to return the nuts back to the tight position.

No homework this time, however it appears all students need to review the previous classes.

Ray (teach)

I have a B.S. and two Master degrees along with other post graduate work. Your class is the most interesting and informative class of all. Thanks you for all your efforts and knowledge.

looking forward to continued class attendance.
mromano

Hi Teacher,
Very interesting U-joint assembly. I have two 1928 Chevrolet driveline assemblies and they differ from the one pictured. In both cases, the front and rear halves are stamped steel. The front half has four studs incorporated into it that extend into the rear half and the whole assembly is joined with four nuts on the rear side. When assembled, the U-joint holds four spherical bushings in which the front and rear Ts move. I have never experienced any trouble assembling the U-joint where I have needed any special high-tech tools such as bailing wire. I can generally get at least one nut started with my fingers and the rest are accessible by rotating the drive shaft. The situation does become a little more complex with a Johnson Overdrive.

As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words. I find yours greatly enhance the discussion. By the way, I do use a 284W coil.

-R

Ray,

The jack supporting the '28 torque tube wouldn't happen to be a "Eureka #2 by Ashland" would it, and it so, is it for sale?

Hey Rusty Fender

I have two drive lines (in car and spare) and both have the stamped steel components in the u joint assembly. Interesting!
mromano

Ray, did you check the clearance between the rear ball half and the front half before putting the gasket and cork seal on the shaft ,or did you go with the same thickness gasket and seal as was used before the overhaul? I always used the standard seals and gaskets on the later models without doing any checking, but it seems that I saw somewhere that this clearance should be checked on the 28, am I just dreaming?

I can certainly relate to the hay-baling operations, boys were hired around our home place to tie and to punch wires, you had to be on the ball so to get the wires around the bale there were wooden blocks that were dumped in the press to seperate the bales the wires went into a groove in the blocks the tieboy inserted the wire into the block, the wire-puncher caught the end of the wire and punched it back thru the bale on the other end and the wire-tyer ran it thru the loop in the end of the wire and made several wraps to secure it they had to do two wires on each bale and the bale was inching thru the press all the time. and then someone had to catch the blocks as they came out the rear of the press and tote them back up to the guy feeding the press the puncher had to watch a mark on the press and dump a block at a certain time to make uniform length bales, I bet you also remember how much chafe and dirt was breathed in a day of baling hay!

Ray, since 2/3rds of my posting was irrevelent to the subject at hand, another senior moment, please feel free to edit it or delete it.

Fellow students: I guess Ray must be on Spring Break, lying in the sun on a beach somewhere.....Gosh! I hope he didn't get called back to active Duty, if he did wonder who is next?