I'd like to tell the story how that came about but it's a tad lengthy, albeit cute, if not funny.

In any case, I took my ol corvette down the road twice yesterday, each time for about 6 miles. Most of the time I was probably going 30-35, with one short run at about 40 mph. About half the trip was on a gravel road and the other half on a paved road.

The car seems to drift. It doesn't pull one way or the other as if it were out of line, it just seems to drift occassionally.

Any ideas why and what would I do to correct it? Admittedly, there is a tad more play in the wheel then I would like. Otherwise, it steers fine, nice and firm. It responded well.

About where should I place the spark advance as I build speed? I played with it some but noticed no difference. At 35-40 I left it about 1/4 down from the uppermost position. I never heard any "pinging" nor did it run hot.

How do I get the drums off the back. I need to get in there to inspect the parking brake shoes and most likely replace them. One side is jammed and the other side not even hooked up.

I've looked in the book and see nothing regarding drum removal. The only book I have at present is titled "Chevrolet Repair Manual", "Showing shortcuts and methods for repairing Chevriolet Superior Models Series K and Series V"

Thanks.

You threw me off by the corvette statement, anyway, I assume you mean your conglomerate Chevy.

Drifting: Any of the following could be the cause: steering box loose, bolts to the frame or needing adjustment, tie rod ends loose, kingpins worn, front or rear shackles worn, wheel bearings out of adjustment, ect.

Spark should be fully retarded when starting and moved to maximum advance when driving.

To remove the rear hub and brake drum, remove the hubcap, remove the cotter pin, loosen the large nut about two turns. Do this on both sides. Drive the car and make as many sharp turns as possible. Stop, shake the wheels to see if they came loose. Drive some more if not.

If this method did not loosen the hubs you may be in trouble. The approved method is the use of a "hub puller". You can purchase one from Gary Wallace.

Three books that all 4-cylinder owners need are: Owners Manual, Repair Manual and a parts list. All of these items are available in reprint and not very expensive. Major vendors have them.

Everything is new and tight. I woulda thought it needs a worm gear adjustment.

And he said

Check your toe-in. I'm guessing about 1/4 inch would be correct.
Mike

The book says zero to 1/8" toe in I checked mine with a piece of new angle iron about a foot longer than the wheel tread width and a couple of buckets. put a piece of masking tape on the middle of the tread of both front wheel make a verticle mark on the tape ,even with the angle iron sitting on top of the buckets across the front of the tires and touching the tape, mark the angle iron even with the marks on the tires.
Then slowly roll the car straight forward or back so that the verticle marks on the tires are behind the tire and move the buckets behind the tires and with angle iron touching tape on the tires and one of the marks on the angle iron even with one of the tire mark, mark the angle iron on the other bucket even with the mark on the tape on the tire, The difference in front and rear measurements is the toe out or the toe in, if it is longer at the front of the tires it is toe out, and if it is longer at the rear of the tires in the back it is toe in. You need from zero to 1/8" toe in. to adjust you have to loosen the clamps on the tie rod (the long one behind the axle) and screw the tie rod or tie rod ends in or out, till you get the right measurement for 1/8" toe in.

That is the right way.

I jacked up my front wheels and with them on jack stands under the axles at the front springs i did it the fast way without rolling the car, just rolled the wheels. I used five gallon buckets and had the car jacked up so that the top of the bucket was hub high. This makets it easy to adjust the tie rod and then recheck the measurements...(this way isn't supposed to be right) but I afterwards checked my toe in with the car on the garage floor and it was the same. With 40psi in each of the tires the car drives 100% better, before When I checked it I it was 3/8" toed out.