My front brake cable covers are shot and I came into a pair of good ones. Tried to take mine off and got the flexable cable disengaged but don't understand how the solid rod one comes out. The end turns on the rod but doesn't slide off so I can slip it through the cover. Thanks

Remove the brake camshaft lever rod housing from the front backing plate. (The bolts holding the housing to the backing plate are inside of the backing plate). Once removed you can then remove the brake camshaft lever roller and pin from the assembly (it just pulls out). Then both the brake camshaft lever rod and the flexible cable can be removed from the brake camshaft lever rod cross head.

Thanks JunkYardDog.
As I mentioned, I got as far as unhooking the flexible cable and I did tap, and I mean tap, on the pin but it didn't come out so as not to ruin anything I thought I'd ask first. Now I can take a hammer and punch and move on. But first--- Tomorrow is another day.

That housing is very fragile pot metal.
How do you suppose I discovered that fact?

What axle and brakes can I use to get hydrolic brakes on my 1933 Chev. The wire wheels I intend to use have a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 In. 5 bolt pattern?

Thanks to anyone who can give me help

First I would ask why change the brakes? The original mechanical brakes can be as effective as replacement hydraulic and don't leak fluid after a few years. If properly adjusted the mechanicals can slide all four wheels with only moderate pedal pressure. It can take more pedal pressure for hydraulics.

For most models, backing plates from '36 to '48 1/2 ton trucks and straight axle cars will bolt in place without changing the axles.