Old Blue has a noticeable left front grab when the brakes are applied. Brake performance on the remaining wheels seems to be fine, no grabbing. None of the wheels squeal, vibrate or give any other indication of a problem(s). This adjustment is the next item to fix on the list of repair items. The previous owner put in all new brake parts. The reference materials I have all start off with an instruction to disengage the emergency brake. The 1937 Shop Manual says to "disconnect the emergency brake pull rods from the brake cables." If only a front wheel is in need of brake adjustment is it necessary to disconnect the emergency brake pull rods or otherwise disengage the emergency brake? Is it because all four wheels should be checked for adjustment whenever any one of them is in need?
37Blue

I have found that when a brake pulls or grabs on my '39 it can be "fixed" by sanding the lining.The lining tends to absorb grease or moisture when the car has been unused for a period of time.The first thing I would do is pull the front drums and see if the linings look OK.If so sand lining material (use dust mask) and check for frozen wheel cylinder pistons (or leaking)....take out on the road and test.The adjustment will not cause pulling with hydralic brakes.

I have never seen anyone disconnect the hand brakes to adjust brakes....and sure would not be necessary on the fronts.It is important that the cables and linkage be woring freely though.

As Chevgene sugested pull the front drums and check all is in order inside, sand linings (I use strip emery cloth along the lining not accross), check the wheel cylinders are free especially on the side that doesnot appear to grab. Then adjust the front brakes so that you can just hear the linings touch the drum. I would also do the same on rears but only need to loosen the emergency brake cables not totally disconnect.
Tony

Why would the shop manual instruct to disconect hand brake when adjusting the brakes?The 48 also states this,chef-

To eleminate a false feel in adjusting the brakes...Could be caused by improper hand brake adjustment or cables hanging up...as I said earlier, I have never seen a Chevrolet mechanic disconnect the hand brakes prior to a brake adjustment - or have I.Probably would be more necessary if the cables and/or hand brake linkage was being replaced or its adjustment was disturbed.

Just got back in from pulling the wheel and drum. Noticed the drum is etched (scored?), one "ring" seems particularly deep (approximately 1/16th inch) There are four other "rings" each much less in depth. I'm wondering if this could be the problem or contributing to it? I'm thinking I better pull all the drums,check for scoring and take them in for turning, assuming replacement isn't a better option at least for some. I cleaned the one as advised. There were some light rust spots at or near the inner corners of the drum. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks.
37Blue

Probably not the cause of pulling but the problem should be taken care of.Drum may end up being a little "thin" after turning.Wear of front suspension parts can also cause pulling when brakes are applied....I would sand the lining and reassemble and see what happens...then look for a new drum while your enjoying driving it.

With no major problems found in the left front I would then go to the right front and spend some time checking things out there. A plugged hose, leaking cylinder, binding brake shoe would cause the car to pull left as the right front brake is not working in tandem with the left front.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check out the other wheels this weekend.
37Blue