Last week my 33 began puking water. I removed the radiator to have it looked at and was advised to run some dishwasher soap through the engine to clean out any rust: hooked the water outlet to the water pump inlet after filling with water. I noticed the water pump leaking and it took several turns of the packing gland nut to stop the leak.

The radiator did need to have the bottom tank resoldered.

My question is: is service packing still available? I know that rebuild kits, which require the removal the water pump and the pulley from the shaft, are.

George

Hi George,

For on the car service, purchase some Teflon string/rope at a plumbing store. Back off the nut and wrap as much of the Teflon around the shaft as possible and still be able to start the threads in the nut. Do NOT over tighten.

Good seeing you at the Bridge/Goose Tour.

Thank you Ray, both for the info on packing and for putting on such a great tour; glad my car waited until after the tour to act up.

Should I disconnect the fan belt to test the pump for excessive drag?

George

Yes, although you can grab the fan and check fairly well with the belt tight. When you start the engine, check and make sure it is turning.

The primary problem causing puking water is air drawn into the cooling system past the water pump shaft. It will first show when slowing or stopping after running at speed (like at a stop sign). Tightening packing nut is best temporary fix. You will need to tighten every once in a while to keep it from returning. Adding a little more packing is also a good idea.

Apparently the water pump overheated to the extent that the thrust washer was thinned to the point that the impeller was rubbing on the water pump body. The impeller and the bushings are in good shape, but the packing and the thrust washer needs to be replaced. RW-145 from The Filling Station includes the impeller and bushings, so is a little pricy. Does anyone sell just the thrust washer and the packing?

I do have an NOS 1929-1931 water pump which has a hole for oiling the front bushing, but no threads for a flip-top oiler. I would rather repair my correct water pump than use the 29-31 pump.

The correct pump has the hole to oil the front oilite bushing. The one with the flip-top oiler is a replacement.

Actually, the Bakelite thrust washer between the impeller and the water pump body gets thin from just from normal wear.

On the early water pumps, there was a hole on the top of the body to oil the front bushing. On the later design (replacement) pumps, there was a "flippy oiler" on the top of the water pump body that was used to oil the front bushing. The "flippy oiler" was not threaded into place, it was pressed in.

Thank you Chip and Skip,

I believe the pump was installed about 2500 miles ago, before I got the car, so the thrust washer failure shouldn't be normal wear, hopefully.

I would still like to know if the thrust washer and packing are available without having to buy a complete rebuild kit. Are "flippy oilers" available?

George

It's amazing how fast the Bakelite thrust washer will wear.

Regarding a replacement thrust washer and packing, you can purchase a stainless steel thrust washer from a fastener supplier. If the impeller was rubbing against the pump body, you will need a thicker thrust washer to move the impeller back from the body because the body is probably worn where the Bakelite thrust washer was rubbing. A thicker stainless steel thrust washer will do the job.

On the packing, you can purchase some "rope" packing at a hardware store or a plumbing shop. I have used that before and it works just fine.

Does one put some "rope" in, then the metal grease gland and then more "rope" or just leave the metal gland out?. I have the teflon rope.

Thank you,
George

It all depends upon the diameter of the Teflon rope. If you have the correct size, you put in two packings, the metal spacer, two more packings, and then the packing nut.

Thank you JunkYardDog,

I have a couple of packages of 3/32 x 36 inch Teflon valve packing.