Many months ago I rebuilt my master cylinder and everything went great except for one minor item. There is a small brass "screw" in the end where the pedal arms go.

I put screw in quotes because it has no head. Basically a set screw that can be continuously run in.

I'm guessing that you pack the space under it with grease and give it a turn every now and then to lube the pins.

My question is, where can I get a replacement for it? I pretty much ruined the slot on in trying to get it out and still wasn't able to remove it. Looks like I'll have to drill it out.

Or do I just need to get a piece of brass rod and cut threads and a slot in it? Thanks

Project48, What you are describing is the pedal shaft pin-lock. It is a machined pice of metal that fits into that front opening on the master. It is NOT a screw.

It has a small hole with threads in the middle of it for threading a small screw in it, in order to remove it.

You can get this part from chevs of the 40s. It is part # 127875A on there web site. The cost is $27.00.

No. What I'm talking about is a screw in the middle of the plug that holds the pin-lock in place. I'll try to include a picture with this post, but no guarantees that it'll work. You can see the screw just looking down through the engine compartment though.



Well, it worked in preview so you should be able to see it. The screw and plug are painted with zinc compound, but the screw is brass as I said in the first post.

Thanks again!

The pedal shaft bushings are lubricated when the master cylinder is rebuilt.The center screw is for installing a grease fitting and lubricating later if the pedal action begins to bind.If you applied a thin film of grease on the pedal shafts or the bushings they will be OK for many years In about 20 years lubricate it again.--or--the screw can be removed and a conventional pipe plug installed.

My book says to pull the small plug and install a zerk fitting and lube very carefully because the grease can run down onto the rubber boot over the plunger and ruin it. I have seen more peddle bushings ruined because of lack of lubrication than ruined boots because of grease. The large hex plug holds the peddle lock in place if you rebuilt the master cylinder you know about the steel cross shapped peddle lock, they came from GM without any threads in the peddle lock, only a hole drilled thru from front to back, You are told to use a stiff piece of wire inserted into the hole to remove the lock. I put a short bend in the stiff wire and pushed it into the center of the lock untill the bend was behind the lock and pulled it out, pulling the lock out is the only way to remove the two peddles from the master cylinder that I know of without using a cutting torch or a cut off tool.
While you have the hex plug out get the small plug out and screw in a zerk and leave it, just be sure anyone Lube-serviceing the car knows not to grease the zerk. I try to give mine a squirt every 4 or 5 years if the car is driven much.

Thanks MrMack. My lock pin was threaded so there was no problem removing it. The clutch pedal was frozen so I had to press it out. But once everything was cleaned, lubed and reassembled, all was well with the world. When I do the final teardown and pull the body off the frame, I'll drill out that screw and put in a zerk. And since I'll be the only one doing maintentance, that should eliminate the possibility of overdoing the lube there.

Thanks again everyone!

That is why I never remove the zerk, besides being where there is a lot of parts around it. I have threaded a couple of the lock pins, I believe a 8-32 tap works well.
The new ones sold by vendors Filling Station , Chevys of the Fortys, National Chevy Association and others are really proud of the lockpins, around $27 each, maybe theirs already have the holes tapped. It is worth pulling master cylinders even if they are junk just for the lock pins That is a job I don't relish especially when the junk car is sitting with the frame half buried in a snakey looking place or a sticker patch.