I have a 1953 235 engine and I was told that you do not secure it to the head on the end of the manifold. It just sits on a pag. Any help would be great.

Believe what you were told. That is the correct answer.

That is Gospel....

It works for me!

The question was directed to the 1953 235 engine.
Chevrolet Master Parts and Accessories Catalog, Effective March l, 1954, page 85, is a picture of the 6 cylinder engine and clearly shows the two end studs. Part number 3835487, group 3.275, Stud, manifold, 1 end threaded - other end used as dowel to line up manifold. Application 49-54 unit 2 ea.

Chevrolet Passenger Car Shop Manual, with 54 supplement, page 6-17, figure 23, clearly shows a head with the end studs installed.

Ray,
I dont dispute the end studs on either a car or truck for a 1953, 235 engine.

Hi lil'johnny,

If it makes you feel any better, on page 6-62, of the Shop Manual, under Torque Wrench Specifications "Manifold Stud Nuts (if used).......25-30 ft. lbs."

Could it be that the engineers, technical writers, and designers don't have their act together?

Ray,
Thanks for the torque specs.
The source you provided in the "Shop Manual" shows that somebody at Chevrolet specified a torqued nut on the manifold end stud for some unknown reason.
As far as it making me happy...well I was secretly hoping you would convince me NOT to put a nut and washer on that stud.
I am wrestling with a rare 1952 Cab-Over-Engine Chevy 235 with an updraft carb.
The exhaust manifolds are notorious for cracking and being almost irreplaceble. I thought that maybe the nut and washer was somehow part of the problem (or solution) that caused the cracking, and that maybe latter mechanics were able to leave it on/off and thus get a good seal, and further avoid stress cracking the manifold.
But the all manuals and literature I have say nought about WHY to put the nut on, or leave it off.

Hi Again lil' johnny,

Now we are getting somewhere. In order to get a good fit and lessen the chances of leakage and further damage to the exhaust manifold, use this procedure:

Assemble the intake and exhaust manifolds together first, useing a straight edge, to get them as near alined as possible. This can also be done on the engine. Once alined and tightened together, take to a machine shop that can either "deck" them or better yet has the commercial belt grinder.

Now assemble with the studs on the ends and tighten the middle bolts to the correct torque. This allows the ends of the exhaust manifold to expand and contract as it gets hot and then cools. Use new layered manifold gaskets.