I've been trying to start my rebuilt engine but no such luck. After checking and re-checking everything, I decided to bite the bullet and remove the front cover. Sure enough...cam is in the wrong position. I had removed it during the assembly to get at a bolt I had forgotten on the front plate. So now I have to take everything off, reposition it and try again. Please don't laugh.

1- Removing the rocker arm assemblies, pushrods, lifters and the fuel pump should allow me to remove the cam ,shouldn't it? Or is there anything else?

2-I am planning to replace the old wafer type carb insulator with the new solid one I received from FS. Does the gasket go between the carb and the insulator or between the manifold and the insulator? Or should there be two?







3-The fitting where the heat gauge sensor goes has a nipple in it to accommodate a heater hose. I'm not planning to install a heater. What plug should I use or do these fittings exist without the hole for the nipple?

4-Does anyone have either the neck or upper tank for a '34 Master for sale?

#1
Can't think of any thing else.
#2
As long as the surfaces are clean NO gasket is necessary - the factory didn't use one (or two)
#3
Remove the fitting and thread the temp. sender directly into the head.
#4
?

I think that the distributor has to be removed in order to remove the camshaft

Yes the distributor too. And the two screws or bolts holding the thrust (retaining) plate.

#4......... Do you mean the upper neck (hose connection) and tank for the radiator?

Thanks everyone, and yes, the ditributor.

And...#4......... Do you mean the upper neck (hose connection) and tank for the radiator?
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Ed, I mean the filler neck. The FS cap I got doesn't fit because the notches on my neck are in the wrong orientation and the rim too shallow. The tabs don't catch.

The temperature sender has smaller threads than the hole in the head. Is there a simple plumbing fitting that would do the trick?

[quote=Pat S]I've been trying to start my rebuilt engine but no such luck. After checking and re-checking everything, I decided to bite the bullet and remove the front cover. Sure enough...cam is in the wrong position. I had removed it during the assembly to get at a bolt I had forgotten on the front plate. So now I have to take everything off, reposition it and try again. Please don't laugh.

She's a done deal.Here 'tis'



Now, I have spark, I have gas (at least to the carb),I put the bead in the window with both valves on #1 closed, the rotor points to #1 lead, still won't start. Removed the plugs and tried to take a compression test, all I get is 35 lbs. Do you need revs for something to register on the compression gauge? It turns fairly slow even with the 12 volt battery. What else?

Someone suggested putting gas directly into the carb to help it start. How much? A thimble full or a cup or something in between.

OK, if you are gonna remove the water heater connection, you will need a reducer in order to screw the sending unit into the head directly.

You may be ahead of yourself. First you need to get the engine turning freely. Remove the plugs and use the 12-volt battery to give it a spin. That should really spin it over. After spinning it for a while and with the pan off you can feel the throws and mains for a worm/hot one that would indicate they were too tight. This would also be the time to check compression with all plugs out. If you don't achieve ~100 lbs ea then the alinement of the cam and crank would be in question. Also the adjustment of the valves.

Let us know how this plays out.

Pat, sent you a PM.
Richard