Next step is to install the rocker arms. What do I set the valves at so it'll start? The same as the hot setting and adjust later if & when I get it running?

Pat
If you are talking about your newly rebuilt engine I would set the clearances .001 to .002" looser, I prefer to hear them rattle a bit than have them too tight and ride open. After its been run(fully warmed up) a couple of times then readjust to specs.
Tony

Thanks Tony. Happy New Year to you and yours.

I set them at .002 looser for now. However I just realized a few hours later that as I turned the engine several times over while doing this, none of the rubber plugs I have in the spark plug holes have popped. Now I won't sleep wondering why.

The compression pressure blew them out - normal. Thats why spark plugs are "screwed" in place.

Read again, they didn't pop. The timing must be off.

What would timing have to do with compression...? Other than your cam is in the wrong position...? Oh my

If you turned the engine slow lining the valves for adjustment you may not have turned it fast enough to blow the rubber plugs.
Tony

Oh My is right. I hope that isn't the case.

Don't start worrying about something that may be nothing. Don't be a worry-wart!

...Unless you really know something to worry about.
Is this engine mounted in the car yet? If it is, get them cottenpicking rubber plugs out and squirt a couple of squirts of engine oil into each sparkplug hole to get a little oil on them piston rings!..now when you turn the engine over with the starter worry if the oil don't spray out and mess up your nice clean engine compartment.

Pat, I would not worry about the plugs not popping out. I agree that you would not of turned It fast enough to build up enough compression to blow them out. If you are still concerned that something Is amiss, then put the number 1 cylinder on TDC and see where the valve train sits. You could even put the distributor In and see if you can line It up with the number 1 firing order. Breathe!
Richard

The engine is in the frame. However if I'm going to turn it with the starter, I think I should put some oil in it. The pre-lube from the build shop was good enough for turning it with a bar but a starter might be too much. I suppose I should install the distributor as well so that the oil pump works as well for the top end. What do you think?

I agree that you probably weren't turning it fast enough to blow out the plugs. Yes, I would put the distributor in so that the oil pump will work.

Pat
Put some oil in the pan and drive the oil pump with an electric drill at least until oil shows at the rocker gear, line it all up for #1 and fit the distributor. Then try cranking it without spark plugs, all theories being correct you should have compression.
Tony

Oil is in. Took off valve cover and verified #1. Seems to be OK. Installed distributor. Does that look about right for #1. Does one make a special shaft to prime the oil system with a drill?

Looks like It may be slightly off of # 1. Can you pull It up and rotate the rotor tab to the 7 oclock position? A screwdriver shank makes a good tool to insert into a drill to spin the oil pump.
Richard

I turned the engine over to bring the piston up and the rotor ended up near & o'clock. I was at the bottom of the compression stroke I guess.

Did that. The oil came up in the front rocker assembly only. Took the centre part off and looked for blockage. I might have had it backwards. It now comes up in front too. It didn't squirt as Mr Mack had suggested though. Looks like the front is getting more oil. After having done that I hooked up the 12V battery from the Mustang. It turns the engine but rather slowly. Only got 30 lbs. on the compression gauge. Either it is still turning too slow or I did put the cam in wrong. Any ideas?



I also installed the clutch lever & return spring. Once again my disssembly photos had missed that one. Does it look about right?

I think you meant at the 7 oclock position and not &, since they are the same key? Yes, you must of been at the top of the exhaust stroke, thus the exhaust valve was closed at this point. Do you see the round ball timing mark on the flywheel that will verify that it is in the proper postion?
Richard

Pat, If your engine is like mine, when It was freshly rebuilt, It will be tight and even 12 volts will spin It slowly, plus It will want to overheat fairly quickly. After a few hundred miles It will spin over alot faster, even on 6 volts, and will run cooler. If you are on TDC with both valves closed and can see the timing mark you are set up correctly.
Richard

Did you make the bracket that attaches to the bellhousing that holds the clutch return spring or was that on the car? My truck doesn't have a bracket like that and the spring attaches to the frame. I like yours better!
Richard

Thanks for the timing mark bit. I'll see if it show up at the proper time. That shows #1 TDC doesn't it?

That bracket was on at least one of the engines.

Yes

When turning an engine that has been freshly built, remove the spark plugs, insure you have primed it with the drill, and then 'jump' the starter by connecting directly to the starter and the bell housing. The best tool for 'jumping' is a 12-volt battery pack. You can safely make your connections and use the switch on the pack to turn the engine. Continue to turn the engine watching the heat of the starter. When it is hot, stop and let it cool. When turning the engine you should be able to observe the oil fed to the rocker arms.

As Ray suggested when cranking initially when the starter gets hot I would suggest that you should still be able to touch it without great discomfort then leave it to cool fully. A friend sets a separate electric motor up and drives them for 2 or 3 hours with a fan belt with no spark plugs. Now that you are sure oil is going through the complete engine any method of unloaded turning will do good but monitor oil pressure. If you can having the cooling system operational (even with straight water) wont hurt though not neccessary.
Tony

I did what Ray suggested & bought a battery pack. It lasted a couple of minutes and needed a charge. Today I installed the rad to try & start it. Looks like I have the wrong upper tank since my new FS rad cap won't fit. I think I have the correct one buried behind a row of flower pots under two feet of snow.



I also hooked up an oil pressure gauge. Didn't get any cranking with the battery but got some with the drill.

The battery pack only lasting a short time will save the starter overheating. If using a 12v battery pack disconnect all other electrics from that connection.
As an after thought, when using the starter do you have the distributor installed as it drives the oil pump.
Tony

Posted on January 4th......

Tony,

Oddly enough, with all the cranking I did using both the Mustang's battery and the battery pack, the starter didn't even get warm. And yes I do that with the distributor in place.

As JunkYardDog noted you had the distributor fitted earlier but you had since primed the system with a drill, I didnt want you to crank it while the distributor was not refitted after using the drill.

With relatively light loads the starter may not get warm but best to check in case. Again erring on the safe side.

Tony

This is Exactly what I was instructed to do when I had my engine rebuilt back in the ninety's.

Turn the oil pump via the distributor hole using a drill.
Once you get the oil up to the rockers everything is sweet, and you can insert the distributor, time it and proceed to start the motor.

The reason why this is done is because the Babbitt poured bearings need to have oil present before starting, and the only way to insure that this has happened is by visually seeing oil at the rockers, via the oil pump at the bottom of the distributor opening.
Just do it and you will be fine.

When you time it, dont forget to get number one cylinder at TDC and check that the leads for number one point to that cylinder. Not forgetting that the firing order should follow the rotation of the distributor...basic I know, but its easy to be caught out and have the leads in the wrong firing order mate...
Good luck

cheers
Peter

it looks like a TRUCK radiator cap, different fittings underneath!

Here's what I have. Which is correct? I see FS has both the truck & car application under the same part number.