Hi all,

Well, I got my '28 Canopy Express to fire up! ;-) Now it seems that the clutch won't disengage. I suspect the pressure plate is stuck to the clutch (it's only been sitting for 40 years).

Any ideas to break the clutch free without pulling the engine?

Thanks, Dean

Hi Dean,

This happened to my '33 coupe last Spring. I thought I was going to have to replace the clutch, but in the process of moving the car by hand, while accidently still in gear, I must have broken the bond and it was fine after then.

Of course in your case forty years may have made for a stronger bond, than I was dealing with, but it may be worth a try.

Roger

Hi Dean,
It is difficult to get to the clutch plate on a Chev 4. If it was me, I'd try towing it with the clutch pedal depressed, hoping it will break free. Try it in second, low would be best but a bit hard on the driveline. A lightly stuck clutch plate can take an unbelievable amount of drive force to break it free.

Regards
Al

Since you have the motor running I would jack up the rear end (both wheels) and at a slow race press and release the pedal. Do not use a fast speed as this could cause damage. Sometimes this works. Used it on some different cars with success.

Thanks all for the ideas.

Another friend, George Childs, told me he had the same problem with a '54 Chevy pickup that had been sitting for quite a while. He pushed the truck so that it was nose-to-nose with a big tree. Then, with the hand brake engaged, the tranny in third, and the clutch depressed, he hit the starter button and used the starter to break the clutch free.

Not for the faint of heart! I'll try a few things over the next week and let you know how it goes.

Thanks again, Dean

I bought a '57 Chevy a long time ago that had been sitting for a long time. The clutch did not disengage. We pushed it out of the garage into the street and started the car by pushing in second gear. Could shift it into any gear by matching engine speed to transmission speed. Decided to drive it home and fix it after I got there. Drove it several miles pushing in the clutch pedal and accelerating and decelerating occasionally. Stayed stuck. Came up to a rural stop sign at T intersection planning to drive at moderate speed making the left turn. At last minute saw another vehicle coming from right instinctively hit the brakes hard and with slight delay pushed in the clutch pedal. The car did not die despite being stopped. Not sure what did the trick but suspect getting everything hot was a major part of the release. After that never had a problem with the clutch.

I think the old "neatsfoot oil" trick used on the cone clutches could help with this one- maybe put some in a spray bottle and force it in between pressure plate and lining. Then try some of the other tricks listed and I'll bet it will break loose.

WD40 might work too but not sure what effect it would have on the lining.

WD40 would render the clutch plate un serviceable, and it would need replacing. But if it has been stuck for many years and is original, it will probably be so hard and brittle that may be a good thing.

Cheers

ray

I would NOT introduce lubricant of any kind to this clutch.

Mike

rustoholic I would remove the motor and fix the clutch right, there may be hidden problems that need attention that may distroy your clutch if you get it free and run it, (been sitting 40 years!) better safe than sorry.
Elbow grease is cheaper than a costly fix.

Keeping vintage Chevy alive.

Rusty, I'd try puting it in Third gear without engine running and with a friend rock it back and forth. Have the Clutch pressed down during this rocking motion.

Hi all,

Just an update. I used a couple of ideas from previous posts and got the clutch unstuck (sort of).

Here's the procedure I used:

1. I put the tranny in third gear and put a 2X4 between the seat box and the clutch pedal to hold the clutch pedal down all the way.

2. Rocked the truck back and forth. Nothing happened other than the engine turned over.

3. Took off the flywheel bottom cover and gently hammered two wooden wedges on either side of the flywheel to immobilize the engine.

4. Rocked the truck again and no luck.

5. I parked my Dodge 3/4 ton truck around 15 feet behind the Chevy. Wrapped a chain around the Chevy's rear axle and hooked a come-along to the end of the chain and my Dodge's trailer hitch.

6. With the Chevy still in third gear, the clutch pedal depressed, and the engine immobilzed, the come-along did the trick. The clutch was no longer stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate, but there's more to the story.

After moving the Dodge and putting away the chain and come-along, I fired up the Chevy but still had a case of grinding gears. The clutch was not disengaging completely. I drove it around the block a few times, but the clutch seems to be partially engaged all the time.

At least there's progress. I now have the tranny out and am inspecting everything.

Some wear and slop in the clutch fork pivit point, as well as a cracked and very thin graphite bearing. I'm going to get a new clutch and convert the throw-out bearing to a new type (as listed in supplier's catalogs).

As other questions come up, I'll post them either here or in a new thread.

Thanks again for all the ideas and encouragement!!

It's quite a rush driving a vehicle that hasn't moved under it's own power in over 60 years!

All my best, Dean

I have cleaned dry clutches on my race bikes (Ducati) for years by using a non-surfactant (detergent) fluid like alcohol, starter fluid or similar. I also use these solutions to clean clutch plates and graphite bearing. Flood the clutch through the clutch arm slot. DO NOT START THE ENGINE IF YOU USE A FLAMMABLE SOLUTION! TILL DRY.