Update: I bypassed the switch and got juice to the coil. However, I don't have juice coming out of the coil. I'll assume I fried it again and replace it tomorrow. Then keep chasing voltage down the line.
C.J.

I assume you are talking about the coil terminal that goes to the poins? If the points are closed or grounded I don't believe you will get a voltage reading. Try unhooking the wire that goes to the points and check for voltage on the coil terminal that goes to the points.

Try wiring around the electrolock with a toggle switch and see if that works, you can use the toggle until you get the electrolock rebuilt.

You can't really fry the coil. Like uncle ed said the points are proably just closed.

Open the points and stick a piece of cardboard between them and check the voltage.

If you open and close the points you should see them spark if hte are closing.

I opened the points, put piece of plastic between them, and still don't have juice out of the coil. Karl, I have already by passed the switch. That appeared to be part of the problem. Just chasing voltage now.
SWC, my coil sounds like a can of peanuts when you turn it end for end. "Fried" may not be the proper term, but there is definately something wrong with it.

Well....IT RUNS! It seems it was a combination of problems, and 1 more new problem.
The ignition switch is faulty, and my points insulator was faulty. I had replaced the insulator once,but apparently screwed that up somehow.
I have wired the hot sources(Hot from starter on one side and pos. coil and gas gauge on the other) through a toggle switch and made a new insulator and the car fires right up. The negative coil wire is still running through the ign. switch.
Now my new problem...The ammeter is showing a serious discharge. About 8-12 amps when the car is running. Whatcha got this time guys?
We're making progress and I truly appreciate all the help. I'm so close to cruising I can taste it!!

C.J.

When you re-wired the car did you by chance reverse the wires on the back of the amp meter by mistake?

I questioned that myself Dog. According to the diagram you sent me it should be right. I have "hot" from the starter to the passenger side of the gauge by itself. I have the lead from the drivers side terminal to the ignition. This wire shares the ammeter terminal with a small cluster of wires going to the lights I believe.

Yep, you have the wires reversed. The hot wire should be on the driver's side and the generator wire, along with the other wires, should be on the passenger side.

I swapped the wires on the guage and it's all good!! Did that just before work this morning...hoping to test drive tomorrow sometime.
I'm gonna re-connect the ignition switch one more time, now that I have ALL of the wiring right, just to make sure it is still partially to blame.
Thanks again to everybody for all the input. You guys are great!!

C.J.

Well, after several days of starting up just fine, even going for a short cruise on Sunday, it won't start again. To recap things, I have by-passed the hot side of the ignition switch with a toggle switch. It had been working fine. When it didn't start today, I first checked the coil to see if it would excite. It didn't. I then ran a jumper wire from the ground of the electrolock to a ground source and got the coil to excite, but still won't start. I'm guessing my electrolock switch is completely toast, not completing the circuit to the disributor. If so, can I rebuild this? Obviously my electrical skills suck to be frank. Or would it be wise to send it out to be rebuilt?

C.J.

I suspect that you have bad insulation on the center wire in the electrolock. You are probably better off to send to a qualified rebuilder than try to mess with it yourself. In the mean time remove the electrolock from the distributor, install an terminal bolt insulated from the distributor body but in electrical contact to the points. Connect a wire to the toggle switch so you have switched power to the points. That should allow you to run the car until you get the rebuilt electrolock back.

Thanks Chipper. I'll try the terminal bolt and see what happens. Is there anybody you would suggest to rebuild the electrolock? Time and distance from me is not important, QUALITY of the workmanship is! I trust you guys to lead me in the right direction.

Thanks again,
C.J.

If you use the toggle switch, add a small warning light that goes on when you have the ignition on. That way you won't accidently leave the ignition on and cook the points or run down the battery.

Either Skipper or me. Both of us have rebuilt a bunch of them. Skipper more than I.

C.J-Look in your Novenber G & D on page 39 and contact your technical advisor #21. He can steer you in the right direction.

hoppy

I don't think that C.J. is a member of the VCCA.