I just removed all but the center bolt. I have not yet dissembled the center portion of the rocker arm, and may not bother. The #15 bolt is bad - the threads at the top are gone where the threads meet the bolt shaft - very thin and likely to snap. The 10 and 14 that are leaking were very wet with antifreeze on the threads. I would like to think I can get replacement head bolts at NAPA or another parts store. I'll permatex the bolts that were wet and hope I solve the problem.

Thanks again guys. I'll let you know how this works out.

I cannot find replacement cylinder head bolts. The Filling Station only has 1916 thru 1928 and 1929 thru 1932. The 29 thru 32 bolts are shorter at 4 1/8" length. Mine are 4 3/4" from the top of the head and 4 5/16" from beneath the head. Any ideas where I can 33 cylinder head bolts and have them shipped overnight?

Hi Jolo,

Try this USA site dedicated for 31 to 34 Chev's

http://www.19331934chevrolet.com/Parts-for-Sale.html

Cheers

Ray

Thank you Ray

I replaced all my '36 head bolts with grade 8 from the local hardware store. Some had to be cut down to fit lengthwise and do not have the big heads, but they work just fine and you don't have to worry about them stripping or breaking. Just make sure they are not too long such that they bottom out before they are tight and that they have enough thread length. I torqued them to 70 Ft-Lbs dry (Not lubed).

Final Episode to my leaking gasket issue. Thanks to all the advice provided by contributors to this post, my problem is solved. As suggested, before tightening the bolts, I removed them all. Good thing I did, because had I re-torqued the bolts without inspecting them, I am certain I would have snapped a few. Six of the bolts were badly pitted and one had thinned significantly at the top of the threads. Thanks to a contact provided here, I located six good used bolts. I coated the threads with old fashioned permatex aircraft gasket cement. I used the tightening sequence in the 1933 Master Repair Manual. I was overly cautious and torqued in sequence to 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70 ft ibs. In sequence, I backed off each bolt 1/4 turn, prayed a little, and torqued to 75 ft ibs. So far, we are leak free. I made it to the car show and back (40 miles round trip) without a glitch. Thanks again to all for the helpful suggestions. I can only wonder what will break next. A lesson learned here is, "don't panic". With this car, the fix can often be simple. Try a few things before tearing it down. Had it not been for the good advice here, I would have bypassed the show and replaced the head gasket.

Thanks

Jolo, I agree this is a great site. Glad to hear you had a successful trip.
Don

Thanks Don.

I think your referring to a product called copper coat, comes in a can with brush also.
mike

Now that you have found that the bolts were the problem , the best suggestion would be to purchase all brand new ones. Install them and be happy motoring.

As the person who used to be THE GASKET KING 1975--1990 in hemmings motor news. The subject of stretched head bolts or studs was a problem a lot of people were having and having to replace head gaskets. FITZGERALD GASKET COMPANY of Torrington Conn recommended in the back pages of their application books to always check the head bolts/studs for stretch. That should also include when the cyl head is off , checking the block for warpage and also the cyl head itself.

Getting new old stock copper or metal core asbetos with steel rings 1933 chevrolet master series head gaskets should be an easy buy at swap meeets and should be cheap enough to have 2-4 spares hanging on the wall.

Another thing fitzgerald recommended was to soak the gasket in water for half an hour, the asbestos inner would absorb the water and allow the gasket to be compressed to a greater degree. When the motor was run the gasket would dry out and swell up, making for an even tighter seal.

Just joined today.....i have purchased a 1934 chevrolet standard series roadster that was assembled by GM in ARGENTINA. Will be looking for some helpful information down the road.
mike

Welcome to ChatII. Just beware even though though the vast majority of people here are nice and friendly there are a couple of grumps. Fortunately they spend more time sleeping it off then hassling folks here. We will try to help where we can.

Thanks for the welcome Chipper, there is always grumps just dying to start something with somebody. But we don't care anymore.

I have some knowledge on 33--35 chevys i have picked up since 1970 when i bought the 35 3 window std coupe. Been digging on the internet for info on the 1934-1935 std roadster. Picking up some ideas about whats the way its supposed to originally be like.

I used to get the G&D starting back in the early 70's and let membership drop for some reason. Nice to see this chat available.
mike