Does anyone know where I can find a water pump baffle plate for my 1935 master coupe? I'm running down a lot of dead ends.

At last report, the Filling Station has them.

If all else fails, take some measurements, and have your machine shop fly cut one for you.

The 1935 is a one year only size-if necessary to have one made the O.D. is 3 1/8"......The Sept. 2004 F.S. catalog lists the 1929-34 only - but would could give them a call.

Thanks for the info. Do you know the thickness and the material? I did try The Filling Station, and about ten others.

The material was brass although I have seen some steel ones also....the brass will not rust.
Going by memory the one for my '34 was about 3/8" thick on the outter edge -which was just slightly around the very edge and about 1/8" in the center.Mine had come loose and had spun in the recess in the block and also the surface in the recess has rusted away a bit.It required some extra means of fastening.For the 1929-34 they are set back 1 inch from the front surface of the block.This demension is important as it ensures that its close to the impeller for good circulation,,,,I don't have a 1935 manual but would assume the distance would be the same.

Are you sure that you have a 1935 block???The 1936 blocks did not have a baffle plate and were used as parts replacement (new) for 1935's and often 1936 engines were transplanted to '35's as they were more common to find used.The cylinder barrels are visable on the left side of the block on the '35 engine and the 1936 is smooth as it has full length water jackets.The 1936 has a drain on the lower -center of the block...Also casting numbers are different...1935 is 837591 and 1936 is 836010.

My 1935 EB pickup master engine water pump baffle is made of steel and is 3 1/8" O.D.x 1/8" thick and has a 1/2 dia hole in the center (for ease in removal??) it is pressed into the block to 1 1/8" on one side and 1 1/16 on the other (without the gasket on block. The water pump vane is 1" from the pump mounting surface.

I machined a baffle plate from the top of an aluminum flattop piston. I figured it would not rust out again. I have never seen or heard of a brass baffle plate in a 35 engine and I have no experience with the other years that used them. Also I have never seen a baffle plate with a hole in it, at least not a hole that was there intentionally.
Mike

According to the original 1935 Chevrolet Repair Manual the proper distance from the front of the block to the baffle is 1". Chevgene is correct in saying they were usually brass.

If they were usually brass, how did they acquire their reputation for rusting out?
Mike

I went out in the barn I checked my parts department; I have 3 1935 engine blocks. All three engines plus the one in my truck have steel baffle waterpump plates. engine casting # cast date engine stamped # 837591 - 7 G-24-5 K543698 837591 - 9 F-19-5 VM5305701 837591 - 6 E-1-5 5153322 The VM engine is out of a Consumer Power Fleet truck with an economy engine system (Tag on dash and on tappet cover.

I went out in the barn I checked my parts department; I have 3 1935 engine blocks. All three engines plus the one in my truck have steel baffle waterpump plates. engine casting # cast date engine stamped # 837591 - 7 G-24-5 K543698 837591 - 9 F-19-5 VM5305701 837591 - 6 E-1-5 5153322 The VM engine is out of a Consumer Power Fleet truck with an economy engine system (Tag on dash and on tappet cover.

I'm confident that it is a 1935 block, although the engine must have been rebuilt because the whole thing was painted black. It does have the visible left side cylinder barrels, and I remember removing the baffle plate when I disassembled the engine. It's been a while and I threw the baffle plate away because it was rusted and deteriorated badly. I think it was steel and maybe between 1/16" and 1/8" thick.

Thanks for all of your replies.

Originals were steel...replacements could be steel or brass. I think I have a brass one that is pressed sheet metal with the center area (about 2" diameter) recessed about 1/16". I need to look around...

Never seen one with a drilled hole either...

Now that I have studied all four 1935 engines I have the one with hole looks home made, the other three are solid I believe are original steel plates.