hi there, I have been reading the post on here and wonder if there is glass available for a 1934 chev standard body 4 door sedan, OFF the SHELF?

Also I have the front bench seat frame in new timber and steel and enquire if the backrest and bench-seat spring-units are manufactured any-ware for my seats. I have the original rear seats with spring backs and seat for recovering , but nothing for the front....only the new front curved frame that I made 15 years ago in a moment of unparalleled enthusiasm....
Peter
down under[i][/i]

Hi,I had the same question about my 33 master coupe.I was told to go to my local auto glass shop and have them cut ,using my old windows for a template.This will ensure you get the proper fit.The "shelf" glass which is pre-cut may not fit correctly.I did call my local shop and they said they would much rather use my old glass for a template.Good luck and hope this helps.I'm not sure about the seats.

Hi there Mike, thank you for the info.
Unfortunately I did not have any glass with the car, so have to make the templates from scratch. I have all the rubbers but it is difficult to gauge the correct clearances between the template and the rubber and the fit into the body.

Seats spring units: I have been looking at the I&I site and find that indeed they reproduce some spring units. I will write to them requesting more information to see if mine are made,(they are listed) but may be the wrong size for my sedan?
Cheers
Peter

My local glass guy told me to get the outline of the window opening on some stiff cardboard and bring that to him along with the rubber. He said he'd be able to figure the difference.

Hey that's a good idea, I just wonder if our glass guys here can do that or have the skills?
Peter

Make a cardboard Template for each window in duplicate. Then cut four inches off of each but from opposite sides. Place both pieces into the frame and work them outward till you feel a satisfactory fit is achieved. Tape them together at the desired setting. Hope this helps. Are you using Safety Plate or at least Tempered glass. Your seat looks similar to my 31 four door front. I bought new springs from Hampton Coach for mine. Send me measurements and I'll check mine. Al W.

That's a good idea for getting the size, wonder how much clearance to leave for body movements.
All I have is the new front seat frame that I made many years ago.
The filling station has a listing for seat spring frames, seat and back, but when I emailed them for more information, they just said that they thought they were for another 34 model and that was how it was left?
what is the "Hampton coach" website address?
cheers
Peter

Go to Google and type in "Hampton Coach". Their web site will come up.

I will be interested to see if your local glass shop will do the correct thickness flat glass.

I did a windshield for a 32 Ford Ute and it was fine, they did safety glass which is double thick standard flat glass.

When I took my glass for patterns they were going to make safety glass thickness which would not fit in my window frames on my Landau Phaeton.

Keep us posted

hey,
finished making up my glass templates for all the glass in the Chevy 34 standard 4 door sedan today.
the most difficult was the front windscreen, needs some clearance and has so many ins and outs of the frame to check for the final fit, that it was not funny.
but now its done, and on Monday O'Brien glass are sending a person to check it all and then I'm on my way to having the tempered glass made for the job.
I thinks that this has been the most difficult of all the jobs on the dear old car, and it has got to be right first time.
As a carpenter, I cant just plane a bit off if its to tight...and I have run out of rubber too. cut 2 pieces and they both ended up 20 mm short of the perimeter. So I will have to order some more from http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/CHEVROLET%201934-35%20STANDARD.htm

ken1939:


They say they are going to use 5 mm for the tempered glass in the doors and 6mm in the front laminated screen, not sure what is for the rear and 2 fixed side rear windows (behind the rear doors), that will be decided on the day, may even take a slab to get correct thickness's? (slab= Aussie carton of beer) hehe...
cheers
Peter

Tempered will be a correct fit. He did offer to do that but it seemed that he didnt know much about it, which left me kind of cold in regards to using him.

Heck I have two aussie cars, why not buy glass from there?

Hi Ken 1939,
so what Aussie cars do you have?
an how did they end up in the USA? stranger than USA cars here!
Do they have Holden made body's to?
Peter

G'day Ken,
I made up the templates and yesterday the glass people came over and inspected the car, rubbers and templates.

They took them all away and said that it would take 3 weeks to make the tempered glass for the doors.

They will then come and help me fit the front screen and other fixed glass, I think it may end up me watching and keeping quiet whilst they do their job.

Peter

My two aussie cars are both 1932 Fords. One is a Type 302 Ute and the other (now in body form) is the Aussie Phaeton.

Hi, first-timer here.

I googled for glass for my 35 std and came up with:

classicflatglass

Maybe give that a try.

Hi there speedbump,
love that nick by the way...

I checked out that site and it is for Fisher body's, mine has a Holden, Australian body.
The prices charges seem to be very reasonable indeed, so recommendation's go to anyone with a Fisher body to give it a serious look see!

I am still waiting for my glass and patterns to come back from O'Brien glass.I will take pix and post up when everything is ready to fit up.

Peter

Hi there,
I collected my new glass from the O'Brien glass people.
When I opend the taped up glass and templates I was very dissapointed with the result.
The front screen was cut from laminated glass and is correct for the rubber channel used. This is the only correct piece of glass.

The rear and 2 side rear 1/4 panel glass was cut and tempered from 4mm glass. All the rubbers are the same size and 6 mm is needed for the rubber channel to be a snug fit on the glass.
so those 3 pieces are wrong.

The 4 winding window panels are also cut from 4 mm glass, the bailey channel is about 6/7 mm wide so the glass will rattle or shake, and to cap it off the tops of the glass are plain cut with almost no rounding or grinding to make the top edge smooth as in modern day car windows.

I had to pay for the glass before taking it home, and it was only the next day that I discovered the faults. (in my opinion).

The manager did not work on Saturdays so I will have to wait until Monday to go and see him.
They actually came to my premises and inspected the car and rubbers and window fittings and then took all the templates away with them for cutting and tempering.

I wonder if I have a case for them to answer to?


Peter

Hit there,
Just an update on the situation:
O'Brien glass came and collected the glass windows that were totally wrong. The manager admitted to some degree of fault.
I gave them a sample of the rubber used for the 3 windows at the rear for estimating the correct size of glass.
I also gave them a piece of bailey channel used for the 4 door windows. 4 mm glass is not a proper fit into 6 bailey channel so again, they will endeavour to manufacture the correct glass.
The only piece that was correct was the front windscreen at 6.5 mm and fitted the rubber channel perfectly.
So its going to take another 4 weeks to wait for my new, improved glass to arrive and fit.
I will now patiently await its arrival....
Peter

Hi there,
the latest update on the glass.
I collected the new THICKER glass from O'Brien's and it is about 6 mm thick instead of 4 mm. It has nice rounded edges and looks good to me. I am still waiting for them to cut the back window glass and come and fit it for me.
The previous glass had very rough edges and not suitable for door windows at all, the new glass is perfect.
over and out....
Peter

Hi there,
I am installing the new door window glass and wonder if the metal channel that pushes the glass up and down, should be glued to the glass?
The glass in new balily channel is a snug fit now that the glass is thicker and does not want to drop by its own weight!
I do not know how modern car window glass is attached to the winder mechanism but I would assume that it is either a tight fit on a channel or possible glued and a tight fit.
I was thinking of using silicon rubber sealant for glass to metal?

Cheers
Peter

just an update:
the glass is now all fitted,

outside weather strips to outer window:
it was a mammoth event, making and shaping bits of wood to conform to the shape of the lower door profile
then glueing the filling station parts to the outside door and wooden part just shaped...

it is now all done and I do
not want to go through all the nitty gritty, its all to traumatic, is this the funnstuff of restoring old cars? bugger.....no

anyway the windows sorta work and I can now move on to installing the petrol tank , the wiring loom , instruments and beyond.........
the beyond part may be on here,


cheers
Peter

Hi there,
This is the final update to the fitting of the glass.

The job is now completed and the lifting channels glued to the glass with silicone sealant.

They all work well, the glass wipes fitted to the inside and the rubber wipe strips to the outside of the door to help wipe off water and also seal the opening to stop rain entering.

Not that I will be taking the car out if its raining.....

It really makes the car look complete and tidy.

---The End---

Check out Sanders

These guys are great.

The side glass that sits in the window risers uses a 1/32 or 1/16 special black cloth tape that the glass sits into. It becomes a very snug fit.

You would think that your glass supplier had the smarts to include the black cloth tape for you, or maybe they just did not know ???? Doubt it. Quiz them.

The tape allows for easier disassembly out fo the glass metal riser holder than silicon.
mike

Hi there Mike,
What you said is exactly true, the tape would make removal of the glass a lot easier!

You may well ask how I know this? Well yesterday I was refitting the L/H 1/4 window, complete with glass installed, to the new rubber frame surround.
I was having trouble getting it into the top hole and the new laminated glass broke in 2 places, the full width of the window.

Several expletives later I had to remove the glass. Not a 10 min job. 2 hours later, I finally had it removed, blood on several fingers and the black silicon to remove..that took another hour, using long thin screwdriver and very sharp knife.

I did have the tape and tried a dummy run, but it bunched up at the corners and I went back to the silicon method.

I installed the chrome frame into the opening without the glass,I was able to twist and coerce it into the top hole.
It could not have been done if the glass was in the frame.....
Thats my storey and experience, I'm just waiting for the next drama....
Peter