I'm working on making my own wooden frame replacement parts. I don't know if anyone would be interested in this process. I would be willing to share photos and explanations of the process. However I haven't found that process to be easy on this site. Anyone have suggestions of an explanation of how I might do that on this site?
Let me know if I should spend the time to do this.
Thanks Don

Hey Don, Why not take a bunch of pictures and write a journal of the process and turn it into the G&D for a feature story? They are always looking to put things like that in the magazine. Good luck with the project.

Nearly every maintenance, repair, replacement and restoration topic is of interest to a variety of VCCA members.

I am redoing my 35 high cab and was going to do the same as you but as time went on I found that a lot of parts are realy hard to copy and if you don't make them just right with all the bolt holes in the right places nothing is going to line up when you go to put your sheet metal on and don't forget the door gaps not too mention the tools you need I pondered the same thing for five months and just went and orderd a whole kit got my door wood and glad I went new the guy I got mine from knows his wood Save yourself money and time GOOD LUCK

Chevyguy35, making replacement wood for those trucks is no more difficult than straightening the sheet metal without bondo. I know because I did it and I'm a pencilneck geologist, not a woodworker.

Ray

I have a 35 Master that was fairly well devoid of wood when I got the car. The problem that I am having is finding enough technical data on the dimensions of the wood...since there was little to no wood on the car when I bought it I have nothing to use as a template.

Howdy, not having any patterns would be very hard. I don't know what your final goal for your car is. Several people who have made rods our of there cars have put steel bracing in their cars. This could be done and keep the car stock looking or rodded. Buying a wood kit might be the only answer for your car. When these cars were built the wood was created first an then the metal body parts were installed. This is important because some of the wood parts would be difficult to replace with the metal in tack. It really depends on what level of restoration you have in mind. My work is going to be a street-able fun driving car. This will make chills run down the spines of the purists. So far none of the purists have offered to send me money to make my car perfect. (ha, ha) So I'll redo my car as I see fit. Please feel free to contact me for more chatter on my project.
Don

Chevyguy, I agree with everything you have said. My problem is I just like to do stuff. Maybe it's because I have sawdust in my blood.
Don

Doneast and Chevyguy35, when I built the wood for my '36 high cab pickup in the early 70's the only pieces that presented a challenge in creating precise curves, cross sectional angles and bolt hole placement were the pieces in the cab pillars in front of the doors.

Those pillars taper and curve in two directions. Even on those pieces, a bandsaw and shaper got the job done. The rest of cab wood was simple table saw and router work following what we all learned in high school woodshop "Measure twice, cut once".

Back when I did my restoration G & D was much more technically oriented than it is these days and some guys wrote in with horror stories of expensive but ill fitting wood kits. After reading those accounts of wood kits that didn't fit I decided to give the cab wood building a try on my own and it turned out fine. I wouldn't hesitate to give it a try if I were doing your pickup, chevyguy35.

If you decide to go for it chevyguy35, one thing that makes the job easier is using clear, straight grained kiln dried wood. In my case, a friend with a custom wood shop had a large piece of ash left over from a restaurant remodel and he gave it to me. Because it was very clear and straight grained I was able to saw all the pieces I needed out of that one beam remnant with almost no twisting of the pieces as they were ripped.

Unlike Don, I don't have sawdust in my blood and this was all a big learning experience.

I too may have a little sawdust in my blood (or at least in my lungs)and have some experience with restoring the wood in cars. I did the wood in my 26 Chevy Touring a couple of years ago and a 29 Oldsmobile (also a Fisher body)for someone else last year. I wrote about my experiences in our club newsletter which can be accessed at: http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/eacc/RBMarch2010web.pdf
I agree that kiln dried ash is the best wood to use even though originally a variety of woods were used. Basically you need to build a wooden framework that's strong,fits inside the metal skin, fits the frame, and has the correct-sized door and window openings. It's really helpful to look at a similar vehicle(take pictures, measurements, etc.) if you can find one with the wood exposed. It also doesn't have to be pretty or identical to the original since it will be covered inside and out. Purists will of course disagree with the last statement.

After being lied to by one of the few wood frame suppliers I decided to do the work myself on my '33. At first a little intimidating but after I got into it I found it was not only rewarding but I saved over three thousand dollars. I found that hard maple was the best working wood; no major grain problems and the nails went in and held securely. With the epoxy we have today if you make a mistake it's easy to repair.

ron

Don, I did my wood too.I used what I had for patterns, bought one of the others and duplicated it. The only part I bought two of were the hinge pillars as I thought they were a bit beyond my skills. I don't know how many hours I have in it but it seems like the winter of '05 at 4-6 hours a day.

Wow! Winter of '05 in Canada is about as long as summer '05 in Tucson...eh Pat?...Joe

Joe,

I wasn't talking about the snow period, just the calendar season. They rarely jive here.

Arend, I just looked at the article you wrote. What a great job. You tackled the entire wooded structure. My car requires that I just replace some of the wood. I'm impressed with what you accomplished.
Dom

Ron, you mentioned that you are using epoxy. Me too. Besides bolting all the joints together I'm also using epoxy to create the joint as well as seal the wood. My guess is that the structure needs to move somewhat. So this could be a problem. But I figure that somebody has to test it out.
Don

Pat, do you have any picture of your project you are willing to share?
Don

Most people assume that Chevrolet used glue in the joints of the reinforcing wood framework. It did not! except for the finger joints that put pieces together to make a larger piece or the rim of the steering wheel. The lap and mortise & tenon joints used tight fitting parts and screws or bolts to hold the wood components together. Of course the metal skin nailed to the wood also provided a major part in the rigidity of the structure.

Don if you go to page 3 of Member's projects, I have a posting Dated Sep 18, 2009 (From start...)which shows what I started with and the first reassembly.Then on page 1, on Oct 18 2010,(10 years....) I have the completed chassis. I am now on the second reassembly, getting ready to do as much pick & file & shrinking of high spots as I can before I turn it over to someone who knows what he's doing. I'll post some tonight of where it's at now.

Pat, metal shrinking is a surprisingly simple procedure done with a welding torch with a VERY small tip, a body hammer and dolly block and a wet shop rag. It takes a little time to master but I know from experience that once learned it is never forgotten.

If you doubt that, please send me your email address and I will send you a picture of my '36 Chevy pickup, restored in my garage in the early 70s and still in my garage today where all of the mechanical, wood, metal straightening and painting work was done.

If you are interested I will be glad to sketch and briefly describe for you how metal shrinking is done.

Ray email rwaldbaumaol

Thanks Ray. I'm familiar with the process although I've never done it myself. Al I need is the torch. I tried with the propane torch but there's not enough heat and even if there was it isn't concentrated enough. There is a place here where a bunch of retirees go to play. They have a full welding shop. I want to try there first.

brino, Would you be willing to give your explanation here. I have one back fender that will need some shrinking. I'm sure others would like your input.
Thanks Don

Here is a video showing the method to heat shrink steel. The torch he is using is a bit large to do delicate car panels.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mptiiRLEJs0

This looks like a good book on the subject of panel repair and replacement also.

http://books.google.com.au/books?id=5jNS...que&f=false

Pump Jockey, thanks for the references.
Don